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From the pictures you posted it looks like you drilled those holes without any attempt to align them. Instead of fighting i'd get new square pipe sections and start again, center punching before drilling any holes....i'm sure you will be saving time.

Actually, when cycling, if you want to spare time you may skip the quench and just put back the sample in the furnace for the next heat as soon as it goes back magnetic (black).

I understand the need to move the unit, but please give the UTMOST PRIORITY to its STABILITY.

I may have missed something, so i want to be sure. Normalization won't leave small grain, it is not supposed to. Hopefully it will give even size grains (quite large) where to start from, plus small evenly dispersed carbides. Then you have to follow up, running the pieces through a series of...

I use a gas oven, and it has the bottom made of firebrick. My blade rests on a steel holder so i have no problems...i would definitely not let the PCB touch the ceramic wool liner. The powder will stick to the blade when it's hot (the blade is hot). insert blade in the oven, retrieve it as soon...

Nice report!! Yes i sprinkle the antiscale on the hot piece and then i put back it in the furnace. Now the compound turns "glassy" and somewhat "bulky", so i remove the piece from the oven and "spread" the compound like butter in order to get an uniform layer, leaving a little excess building up...

....Another thing to be sure during your testings. Be sure that the bottom surface of your sample (contact to the rockwell anvil) it's lapped flat, without any bow. Your number will be lower if the sample will flex under the brale. That's also why you can't reverse the sample after reading and...

Hi Joe, please be sure to remove the decarburation from the heat treated sample before taking any reading. Heat treating a 1084 specimen i had as quenched variable numbers from 62 to 64,5 hrc and those had recieved just a little hand sanding after the HT. The same samples after being well...

....and when it does happen, that's the famous retained austenite LOL ;)

thanks for the explanation.

Hi Tracy, i agree about clamping!! I used light spring clamps just to avoid any sliding and to keep it in place without it rocking on the glue bed, but the tape may act as clamp substitute. What do you mean by failing when you used other than HT glass? Did they break? Actually my main concern...

very clean, well designed pattern...i like it a lot!!!

Curious phenomenon, so you have found that you are actually "arching" the glass to its steel substrate? I have not noticed it in my setup, maybe my glass touches the steel in some spot through the glue film...i really don't know Or, since i rest my hands on the steel workrest there is not zap...

I was afraid of the ZAP thing, but mine doesn't sting me since i installed the glass platen...never! I wonder why, maybe my grinder is connected to earth, since the motor shell is and it is bolted to the grinder frame instead of on a wood base?

The low temp salts really shine when it comes to quenching hypereutectoid deep hardening steels (think 52100, o1...) You quench directly into the salts at shy above Ms (let's say 420 °F) and let just equalize the piece...then you pull it out from the salts and have the chance to straighten it...

I must add that i don't have so many springs under my belt to be sure i wasn't just lucky up today; but i underline that first step is subjecting the spring to a full temper, only then i draw the flex portion + central hole, to blue. Considering the minimum required flex range i'd say i don't...

I have my disk in the horizontal position, and i wear the "disk apron"...a filthy, muddy apron from grinding on the disk, because i use spraying windex on the paper. It does keep the piece cool better than grease/oil, and i have less rust issues than with plain water. I couldn't concieve using...

I have never had a carbon steel spring that snapped or that gave for too much softness. I temper thoroughly the spring with the blade (380-420 °C depending on the steel), and then draw the spring to light blue only in the flex portion, including the first hole, with a soft propane flame, taking...

Nice layout, but are you sure that in the closed position you won't have the stop sticking out in front of the handle?

very well done!!! Can i ask you what pin material did you use where is the ivory? I'm deciding if i should dare to pin my ivory with SS or if it would be much safer nickel silver