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Brad, to try to answer your question, over and over I have heard that thick clay is not good for a hamon. I have been told that the temper line will not follow thick clay. My experimenting has shown that if the clay is the same on both sides of the blade the hamon or temper line will follow...

Now for the Hamon part. I have found that if the clay is the same on both sides of the blade that the thickness of the clay doesn't matter. The hamon or temper line will follow the clay. As I think I already stated for what I sell my blades for I am not going to spend the time to get a Don...

Perhaps you missed the "Quick and Easy" part. I am well aware of Don Hanson III, Nick Wheeler, etc. First the quench at 36 grit part. Ever since I have access to 36 grit belts I have heat treated and quenched at that grit. This was my ABS blade of 5160 that I used to pass the ABS...

"But he hasn't returned comment yet. The ball is in his court to do so" I really don't have any comment. I went to lengths to show how I got the hamon I got. I heat treated at 36 grit and my clay was thick. I showed pictures, the process, and the results. I will let the results speak for...

There have been questions and concern about heat treating 36 grit bevels. I have thought of something that I feel I should mention I don't grind bevels with a NEW 36 grit belt. I first use the new 36 grit belts to taper tangs. When the belt starts to loose it's cut on tapering tangs, I then...

Daniel, thanks for your answer, I am glad your conclusions have come from testing. I do think it necessary to have vertical grinds on the thin knife edge before heat treating. Everyone can have different experiences. I haven't had a cracked blade since I have started using Parks 50.

I think there is a lot of misinformation out about hamons. One is that the clay needs to be thin. From my experience and I have done a lot, the thickness of clay doesn't matter. What matters is that the clay pattern should be the same on both sides of the blade. I have put clay on close to...

Alden, to answer your question, my bevels are 36 grit when I heat treat. I have heard others go up in grits before heat treatment, but I don't and it works for me. I quench in parks 50 and have no trouble with cracking. I do grind the edge longways before the heat treatment. Cross scratches...

Some knifemakers make really beautiful hamon's. The problem I have is most of my knives sell for around $200.00 so I don't want to spend a lot of time etching and polishing. So is there a way to get a hamon quick and easy? One like this. I know there are better hamon's but they take a lot...

Thanks, Kevin, I look forward to your other videos.

Von, Ed, and Kevin thanks for the help and answers. Kevin, on your next video you might consider a section on heat treat for stock removal blades. I m 70 years old, my shoulder is injured, and I find myself making more and more stock removal knives.

I just watched Kevin's video and it is excellent. Very well done, with lots of great information. Kevin, I have a question. If a person does stock removal, would Normalizing, annealing, stress relieving etc. be necessary? How would it work if a stock removal blade of 1084 went straight to...

Thanks! Very nice!

Thanks, Ed, that is just what I need. Your rolling mill sounds amazing. I look forward to pictures.

Ed, thanks so much. I am very much looking forward to seeing your pictures. Thanks for always being willing to share information. Unfortunately, I am not very computer literate. I will need for someone to help me do what you have suggested. My grandchildren are all computer experts. They...

In the WIP section there are several posts on how to convert a surface grinder to belts. The problem is, all the pictures don't show up. Probably thanks to Photo Bucket. So, Those of y0u who posted how to do the conversion. Would you mind posting again with pictures.

I mainly grind CPM 154 and W-2 steel. What works well for me is 36 grit, 60 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, 400 grit, 22 Norax. Then I start hand sanding long ways on the blade with 400 grit and work up to 1200 grit. Skipping any of these grits would make the job much harder.

I have mine in a local store. When a knife sells, they get $30.00. I get the rest. When I think about how much attending a big knife show costs in travel expenses, hotel, food, cost of the show table, I think I am getting a bargain.

In my opinion, 416 SS used as a guard does not need to be hardened. I have used hardened 416 SS and in use could not tell it apart from unhardened 416 SS.

I wish there was a good knife making magazine. I still subscribe to Blade, but I'm not sure it's worth it.