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Good catch. I didn't see that.

BTW, if you go with a controller similar to the one I posted, just make sure it can handle the wattage on your oven. Most small toaster ovens are probably only 1000 to 1100W or so, but if it runs a little higher than that, there are similar controllers out there with higher capacity.

If you want to save a few bucks while simplifying things quite a bit, they do make "plug and play" temp controllers like this one: https://amzn.to/3vmyMc1 Just plug your oven into the outlet, insert the TC (you'll probably want to drill a hole somewhere around the middle side or rear of the...

If I'm not mistaken, USN was in the middle of migrating servers/upgrading the forum software when they ran into some issues. I believe the owners of the forum had a house flood or something as well. They do have a Facebook group for the interim ("USN V2" if I recall), and I believe there was...

My in-laws live on Pine Island. My father-in-law was home during the hurricane. My mother-in-law happened to extend her visit to my house an extra week, so she was here with us in Indiana. Unfortunately, it looks like they have lost nearly everything. Communication has been spotty to say the...

Looks good! I think I remember seeing something similar at my last job. We used it for making gaskets for some of valves we worked on and what not.

The vast majority of makers who use shield are using traditional shield patterns. As others have said, they're available from a small number of suppliers. (IIRC, Leading Edge Fabrication still offers them, as well as the parser plates.) There's no set rule per say. Then again, there are a small...

Cool design. On the next one, I'd try adding a primary bevel to thin the edge out even more, or even just taking your edge up a bit higher. For cleaning up excess epoxy squeeze out, I normally do one of two things: 1) I'll let the excess dry to a semi-hard state and pick it off with a sharpened...

Best thing you can do is report the individual posts as spam and move on.

I've got a pile of 1/8" shank carbide endmills that I've broken one way or another. Last night I chucked one into my hand drill and rounded the end off with a ceramic belt. I then just press fit it into the end of a scrap piece of 9/16" diameter stainless round that I had laying around, and now...

Well, I just tried your advise, and now instead of a U shaped blade, I have a W shaped blade. :rolleyes:

If you can, get a mill with an R8 compatible spindle. Along with that, you'll need an R8 collet set. I wouldn't recommend getting the cheapest set you can find, but you don't necessarily need the most expensive either. Next you'll want a decent Vise. Get an actual milling machine vise...

There's a good chance yours is single in/ 220 "3 phase" out. Your motor name plate will usually say the phase of the motor. Single to single VFDs do exist, but they're few and far between, and not that great for grinder applications. Of course, you also have DC motors and controls, which will...

Variable speed via a VFD (variable frequency drive) requires a 3 phase motor. The VFD (at least the VFDs we are referring to) uses standard single phase voltage for the input, but outputs a "simulated" 3 phase voltage to drive the motor (220VAC, not 480VAC)

There are similar brands (very likely made in the same factory) on eBay all the time for comparable prices. They're definitely not as "cheap" as they used to be, but nothing is. I'd also keep an eye out on the surplus/used market too. Granted, a 2hp, 3 phase, 56C frame motor is fairly specific...

You're likely not going to find a "turn key" grinder for $1000. You could certainly build one within that budget, though it may take some careful shopping/sourcing of parts. IIRC, the Revolution grinder kit sold by Brian House (housework.us) averages about $1k, though it does require some basic...

Hard to tell from your picture, but those may very well be galvanized. Maybe use them for pattern templates? Can they be used for liners? Maybe? I'd see how readily they rust first. Galvanic corrosion might be an issue down the road.

Ah, I see what you're saying now. Sounds like it's time to modify the circuitry of the Bosch.... ;)

Must have missed this thread the first time around. Good stuff!

I made up a switched outlet box that my Porta-Band plugs into. You could make one for about $15 worth of electrical parts from the hardware store. My saw plugs into the outlet, and a standard switch turns power on or off. I can't remember how I locked my trigger... I think I use a small c-clamp...