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A little over the top trailing point. .210 AEB-L, tang tapered to .040, stabilized spalted Madrone. Don't you hate it when tiny scratches pop up in a photo in a place (ricasso) where it's almost impossible to fix them?

New Koa flipper. Tom Morris damascus. Blade, Ti and pocket clip gunkoted with satin clear. Headed to OKCA.

I also started with known knife steel for the same reason. I do however occasionally grind a complete knife from hardwood for custom builds to make sure it is what the customer had in mind.

This so much. It makes life better. I like your budget!

I put the cork on with contact cement. It might be difficult to get off though. I have one of Nathan's 1 degree discs. It is steel, I figure I can heat it if I need to remove the cork. I use feather disc adhesive for the paper.

I use 1/16" gasket cork.

I have a G0704, pretty much the same except it didn't come with DRO's. Like Bob said they have limitations but within those limitations they're good. The DRO is a must have. I went straight to ER25 collets. No unscrewing the drawbar.

I'll take the small wheel holder. j_klatham@msn.com

Does the small wheel holder include wheels? If so I would like it.

If you haven't watched this before: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=alex+snodgrass+bandsaw&docid=607999852578276742&mid=B975EE9BF420EB736BACB975EE9BF420EB736BAC&view=detail&FORM=VIRE This video changed my bandsaw game.

I found some new 2.5" copper pipe at the scrap yard. Cut, split, heated it red and quenched then straightened it.

I have a tendency to agree. One of the things I learned on this project is I didn't start with enough core thickness. The core started as .215, the damascus layers were about the same and the copper was a little over .062.

No, I just etched my name then covered it with nail polish. Thanks

Thanks Ken. Core steel is 1084, the damascus is 15n20/1095. I stacked the premade damascus, copper and 1084 together and welded the outside of the stack. The weld had many porosities from the copper. I think on the next one I'd make the copper 1/8" smaller all around trying for a better...

This one stretched my boundaries a little. 8.5" edge, 14" OA, 5/16" spine with a hammer texture guard and a K&G stabilized brown dyed curly maple handle.

Looks like my 9x30 Enco. I paid $500. Probably made in the same factory. Yours has a $300 3 axis DRO and is in nicer shape.

That stuff is awesome!

Yup, that's why I tried it also. The one I linked is 120v.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7VS6HX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had to make a plenum to adapt to a 3/4" pipe but it works great. I reach welding temp at about 1/2 to 2/3 speed but my forge doesn't have the internal volume of the OP.

Thanks! It won’t see the kitchen but cake it wiiill cut. Lol