Search results

I concur with the suggestion that you get yourself some Parks 50. Having used peanut oil I feel that it is iffy for simple steels like 1095 and 1075, especially with lower manganese levels. I'm looking at the same problem with shifting over to 8670. Parks 50 can be had at USA Knifemakers. Doug

It will be interesting to see your work. Welcome to the madness and let us know if we can help. Doug

It's one of the things that I don't like about knife shows. There's always one or two in the show and I end up next to them listening to their garbage for the whole weekend. Doug

I'm sorry to hear that. I wish that he had decided to stick around and not let someone else control him. Doug

Kevin in his heat treating video recommended Houghton International. Just go to their site and look up their fast quenching oil. At least at the time he made the video they also listed data on their quenchants. Doug

That would make a nice lady's bodice dagger if women still wore bodices these days. Doug

I doubt that J. Doyle's first name is Doug but I'm sure he understood.;) Just say'n.

I don't know if it's the best price or not but USA Knifemakers Supply carries it in 1 and 5 gallon buckets. Doug

Love the straight layered damascus. The carving on the handle is interesting. What is the wood you used? Doug

That's some very nice work. The stag scales weren't over sanded down like I have seen on other knives. It's like why get stag scales if you are going to sand all the texture away? Doug

Here's is to your complete recovery and return to your shop. Doug

I mean a hacksaw like the ones that hold a thin blade in a rigid steel frame that you hold in your hand. I think that they cut on the forward stroke. Works fine if you are not trying to cut a stack of bars or something really thick. You don't need a power tool for everything. Doug

I'm not quite sure what you mean by high end steel. CMP-S30V is indeed a high end steel but it has it's faults, like being more brittle than the more simple alloys. 80CrV2 is also a good simpler steel that is less brittle but also less hard. Don't forget the heat treatment has a lot to do...

What ever you do don't buy a used chop saw off Ebay or Criags List, especially if they are saying that the sale is as is. I got a used one once and the nut that held the blade one kept unscrewing. I've used an angle grinder with cutting discs and a hack saw with a good blade does well for...

It was the ABS production from 2010. I think that I got it through Amazon but if I'm wrong it can be had through the ABS store. I don't have Dr. Thomas' book so I can't compare the video with it. Doug

I just finished Kevin Cashen's video on heat treating. I can't recommend it highly enough. It answers in detail the various elements of heat treating including selection of steels and quenchants and many other issues. Doug

Truelly outstanding. Nothing not to love about it. Doug

One question that pops into my head is how do you know what temperature the steel was at if you don't have a HT oven? 1080 is a simple steel to heat treat in a forge; it's real forgiving. Just wait for the decalessense to pass and then quench. There's not enough carbon in it or other metals...

Good work. Keep it up and, oh ya, welcome. Doug

Ok, you peeked my interest on that alloy. I just ordered a bar from AKS and will make a cleaver/camp knife like Tod Cutler advertises on his site. I just have to get up off my butt and get my forge set back up after having been cleaned out of almost all my tools. I'll see what canola oil...