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Not to derail your actual request, but you should get a VFD rather than a 3 step pulley. I did the pulley thing initially and the VFD is a much better.

I have a vinyl cutter (silouhette) that works pretty well. The hardest thing I've found is the very small detailed stuff can be hard to get right. Stuff like fonts with thin scripty stuff, details in pics/animals, etc.

Yes, I'd read that same bit. I can attest that the coat is harder than hell as I often get it on the bolsters and I have to sand it off or use acetone to dissolve it. I use it on all woods. I haven't done bocote but all the usual types: African Blackwood, Ironwood, Maple, cocobolo, Stabilized...

yes, same mix for each coat

So, I found this because I was looking for tutorials on using tru-oil. It's been around for quite awhile and is generally used for gunstocks (I used it on a muzzleloader my son and I built). I'm not sure where it originally came from but a user called Woodstock63 is generally given credit...

So, I'm not sure how critical this is but I've seen a lot of discussion around food safe with kitchen knives. I'm a Tru-Oil fan myself (mixed partly with Armor-All) but I've also been hearing a lot about Odie's Oil products. They are food safe. I haven't tested any of them but maybe a good option?

gotta be better than sandpaper!

My wife sent me unsupervised to our local "tool barn" (lots of used equipment, tools, etc.) to get a new leaf blower. How do you like my new leaf blower?

The other thing is you have to be careful if you sand the mark after etching. If it isn't deep enough you can sand the black marking off. Ask me how I know!

I believe the issue I was having was that the edges of the solder kept peeling away so after I sanded there would be a small void. I'm gonna change the process and use shoulders rather than soldering to avoid the guard gaps and sanding. Just like Bühlmann above, I have several hidden tangs on...

I've got one, it's sits next to the drill press and is covered in about a half inch of grinding dust!

I'm interested to see the soldering on the fronts of the guard. A challenge I had was getting the solder to blend well enough between the guard and the blade. It's a tough spot to sand. It definitely looks better without the bump on the pommel.

I generally do the etch and then flip the switch to "mark". Though I can't say it makes a huge difference. There are different electrolytes for stainless versus high carbon blades.

A knife (xmas) for my father in law. Custom knife stand ;)

Just a guess, but maybe a CNC machine where you program in what you want?

So I was at the Sacramento International Sportsmens Expo and there were several knife dealers there. Most were US dealers and they had some nice looking stuff at the prices you'd expect. But of course, then we found the Pakimascus table. Damascus knives for under $50, etc. etc. My son looked at...

Of course, I think I got it online here: http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/knife-profiles.html

Filet Knife - g-carta brown trout scales, african blackwood bolsters

Glad I read this thread. I haven't tackled a hidden tang and have several on the bench right now. That radius'ing adds a wrinkle to my plan for hiding the guard gap. My plan was to grind a small shoulder across the "flat" of the blade as well that the guard would slide up against to hide any...

lol, those aren't grains, those are rocks!