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here is cut out Seppa ( spacer) Now I have to mic blade and make sure hole (ana) is nice and tight .... couple pics

Here is cut out seppa (spacer) Now I have to mic . blade and make sure hole ( ana) fits nice and tight.

Metal is hammered and refined , it gets a nice golden color as it becomes thinner

AS you work the metal to make thinner and elongate , it gets a nice golden color, kind of like black hills gold

Here is a seppa (Spacer) I forged last night . Pieces of shibu already dead soft are expensive ,about same price as silver Mokume , that is unless you make it yourself . The secret to forging it without cracking is to anneal , anneal anneal as much as possible . This accomplished by heating...

Here is a seppa (spacer) for new sword . These fittings are all hammer forged . A lot of work but, pieces of shibu are real expensive , that is unless you make them yourself .... Bubba

Thanks for all the info . I have 2 more pieces . They have 24" cutting edge but are .150+ where the other 3 are .250+. May have to try for a good spring temper on those . I will do a little experimenting as I go along . Thanks Bubba

Tonight , I will hammer forge some pieces into useable shapes and post them wed.... Bubba

Would the difference in the high temp, and low temp, temper make a lot of difference in a longer blade ? I would think a lower RC in longer blade for some toughness . ? Never made a big blade from 3V . Meaning 12" - 25" . Made a few smaller blades 3"-6" no problem with peters HT on those ...

This is a piece I cast this morning , 45% fine silver and 55% copper . There are several types but I like the 45/ 55 blend . This particular piece weighs about 12 oz. Used a fine silver .999 ingot and the rest good copper . From this I will Hammer forge a Habaki and seppa for sword ...

This is a piece I cast this morning , 45% fine silver and 55% copper . There are several types but I like the 45/ 55 blend . This particular piece weighs about 12 oz. Used a fine silver .999 ingot and the rest good copper . From this I will Hammer forge a Habaki and seppa for sword ...

I have tried Peters for HT on some stainless, he does good work . I wonder if the cryo makes the 3-V a little tougher ?? I heard that it does ??

OK .. I found this from Crucible ... Has anyone used this formula ??? http://www.crucible.com/PDFs/DataSheets2010/ds3Vv1%202010.pdf

Heat treat for cpm3-V sword I was wondering , has anyone made any swords from CPM 3-V steel . If so what kind of RC are you using for swords ? I am sure that RC is a bit lower than small knives ! Have a few chunks of it and I thought I would give it a try... Would like a HT...

Real nice blade , good hamon and knife scales are cool . Bubba

Good idea , 87 amps is what a normal household would use . Your electric bill might cause a heart attack . I used to have a huge drill press that ran on 3 phase Y , pulled over 60 amps if it became locked in some tough stuff . When I used it , my bills were atrocious . Heat treating can be a...

For 87 amps you need a minimum size 0f no# 1 0r # 2 conductors . They don't specifically make wire for 87 amp so you have to go to 100amps . Its better to go bigger than smaller . I equals E over R....

email sent...... Bubba

Blade bond sounds like a good product . Is it epoxy based glue ? I make a few bowies now and then and I would like to give it a try....

Very cool , Walter is a friend of mine , We share the love of Japanese sword smithing ( katanakaji). Walter is a teacher , and a very good one at that . He has that monotone voice that allows you to understand what he trying to teach. thanks for posting....... Bubba