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Okay…. It would appear we got a bit off track…..

I have had a customer request a bushcraft knife with an accompanying ferro rod. My question is, does it matter what steel I use for the knife itself? I know I need a square edge to use with the rod, I’m just not sure if the type of steel matters. thanks in advance

Finished product. A good effort overall and most importantly a learning experience. For those eagle eyes observers out there, yes that is the third set of handle scales. I am very proud of how it turned out, now to make the sheath.

Back to this point again. New frame, new guard and new scales. A little rough shaping done. This time I was super careful around the guard,scale, frame junction. Glue up and finish tomorrow.

I really thought I had a good plan for fitting the scales to the frame, the knife and the guard. I even practiced on a couple mock ups, but man did I have my hands full. Its One thing to make scales match up to a guard, but making sure ever single piece is square and flat, is a tough one...

Heat treat and temper done. Cleanup, final bevel, and hand sanding done.

I did the frame next. It locates with 2 small “pins” in the front of the guard. I did the primary bevel next, in preparation for heat treat. I figured I’d better put some holes in this thing before I put it in the oven.

Next up was the guard. My least favorite part. I use round stock, because it’s what I had, no other reason. I marked out my center line and put some rough marks about 1/8” apart. Drill those holes all the way through. Once I get those holes in I flip the guard over and use a 3/16” carbide...

A bit more progress today. Once you get rolling in something neat like this it’s hard to stop. The pictures didn’t turn out that great, but I got the frame fit up to the tang, and the guard is next. I honestly have no clue if I’m doing this in the right order, so if anyone has any input...

Some more progress. I use my homemade file guide and a big cheap triangle file to square up the shoulders. Next up is the frame portion. The outline isn’t that great, but it cleans up on the grinder.

I’m not a forger so stock removal is how this build is going to proceed. I chose AEB-L stainless, mostly because it’s my all around go-to steel. I don’t know that anything else wouldn’t work here but that’s what we chose. I generally trace my paper drawing onto a little card stock/cereal box...

I don’t know why it did 2 posts, but this is the one I am going to continue with.

Owl and I settled on a frame handled smallish Bowie style knife for our build. The picture is awful, but you get the idea. Neither of us has done a frame handle before, so this should be interesting.

Duplicate posts. Delete pleaee

Yeah, just make the jaws. Literally a pice of stock with two properly spaced holes.

I’ll echo what Dennis said. If there any way you can get it apart, and get the jaws in a mill, mill them flat and drill and tap two holes in each. A couple advantages there, one you don’t loose any jaw depth, could possibly add. Second you can swap our the jaw faces. I have several for mine, in...

I have finally succumb to the eventuality that I would need to start forging my own material if I was going to get what I want. What are the best/easiest 2 materials to forge weld together to make a San mai billet? Also any tips on material thickness to begin with would be helpful.

I currently have a shop made 2x72 that serves the purpose. It has several inherent weaknesses and requires a more than convenient amount of maintenance. I will soon be purchasing a new grinder from a manufacturer. As of right now I’m looking very seriously into a grinder from OBM that tilts...

I could accomplish what I’m after with 1-1/2” wide x 7-9” long.

Size really isn’t a huge factor, except thickness I suppose. I would like it in the 3/16 range but no thinner than 1/8. Steels I’m not crazy picky either, but obviously something I can heat treat. I have an oven so I can do things like AEB-L and 52100, and I’m comfortable with those and that...