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I tried this, and I found this out. Don’t use the medium or thick type, it leaves visible gaps. Use the thin kind. I also used accelerator, and that isn’t advisable either, unless you are crazy quick.

I would be interested. Please send me a PM with details if it suits.

That sounds like great advice. I have been fortunate to have worked in the medical device industry for over a decade and have picked up a few tools and processes from that trade. On our Swiss screw machines -.0002 is common tolerance. That said it sounds like I may be able to shorten the...

I’m glad you like it. Sorry it was late. Things got crazy there for a minute. Your wife was right, all the wood is stabilized except the walnut (I have found it doesn’t need it necessarily, most of that stuff is 30+ years old and is pretty stable). Believe it or not, and I’m a touch ashamed to...

On my list of to-dos this year is to build a folder. I getting better at fixed blades and I’d like to expand. Where does one start, to glean the most knowledge from the experience? I thought about making a few friction folders, but have came to the conclusion that I’d like to do a liner lock...

I used to put the sanding drums in my cheapo drill press and just run the drum into the hole and lock the quill down. It worked pretty well but you can’t use a ton of pressure.

It may not be as noble, but I donate to several different conservation organizations, mostly Waterfowl oriented but I also do some military rehab groups too. I like to donate there because they seem to be appreciated, and they seem to generate good money. Also those organizations tend to run on...

I tried using the bigger saw today and it went well. I don’t see any issues using it and I may have to fab some sort of small table to assist in using it vertically. I did run a small amount of coolant, I don’t know if it helped but it didn’t hurt anything.

I have a 7x12 that I bought for a good price, in my previous profession. I also have a porta-band. I’ve been using mostly the portable saw, and it would appear that is my mistake. On the big saw I’ve used 1 blade for 6 years just cutting mild steel and aluminum. I suppose it’s time to switch saws.

What size bandsaw are you using? I have 2 and I might just be using the wrong one. Are you running any type of coolant?

Has anyone ever tried a diamond tipped cutoff wheel on a angle grinder?

What is everyone using to cut G10? I’ve used my table saw, and while it cut, it dulled the blade very quickly. Same with my metal cutting bandsaw, even at low speed. I’m not afraid of investing in tools, but if there’s an inexpensive alternative to buying blades I’d love to hear about it. Thanks

I’m in.

I’m experimenting with hamons on some 1075 and I was wondering what sanding and etching program everyone is using? This is what I have so far. Thanks in advance.

Jerry Fisk always says that the knife should flow even without the guard in place. I try super hard to make that happen. Sometimes I win sometimes I loose.

Today I worked in getting the guard shaped and fitted. I’m still contemplating bending the guard a little but I haven’t decided yet.

I got most of my finish grinding done. I left the edge intentionally thick pre-heat treat (.090), to try and mitigate warpage, still warped, but was fairly easy to straighten. So I thinned out the cutting edge, and got the grind lines where I wanted them. Now for blade it’s on to hand sanding...

TERRIBLE photo, but the heat treat is complete. Good and hard, tempered back. Now finish grind and handle work!

I got the bevels cleaned up, up to 220 grit. I ran into a little issue, and had to raise them higher than I planned but I like how it turned out. Next step is heat treat.

I snuck in a little shop time and got a start on the bevels. No idea why the quarter is there. For whatever reason I find it much easier to get a good controlled bevel on bigger knives. My usual is small hunters, and I struggle mightily, which is how most of my knives end up as full flat grinds...