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Definitely. You need protection of some sort. While foil may be better, two coats of ATP-641 works pretty well.

Acually, it was not yet sharpened when photographed. The edge in the photo is about .006/.008 thick yet. I wanted photos before the owner picked it up.

I very seldom make modern styled knives, but once in a while I get talked into doing one. This one has a 7" blade of 3/16" 01 steel. India stag grip. Nickel-silver guard. The blade is flat ground with a hand rubbed 220 grit satin finish. The false edge is unsharpened, but was brought to an edge...

Thankyou all for the compliments. I greatly appreciate the kind words. This is my 5th sword scabbard, and recognize there is yet more to learn about the making of them. Thanks again.

Iron mounted scabbard for a Willyard/Secrest 24" bladed hanger. Copied/inspired from an original 18th c. scabbard which I assume to have been English. Throat and drag was made from 22 ga. sheet steel. Locket/frog button was filed from 1/8" steel, and brazed to the throat and post. A 20D nail was...

Mine sit for a few hours before tempering. I let the oven cool below 250° before programing the temper.

I remember it being designated as Stellite 6 K. Seems like it was something like 40% cobalt

My 01 blades are cool enough to touch bare fingered when they come out of quench, although would be uncomfortable to fully grip. They are well below 400°, and at that point are going to cool faster in air than in the heated oil.

Just my experience, and only using test files, I have found 01 harder after 30 minutes than after 10 minutes, out of quench.

Your drawing looks dead on correct. The leather is a bumper for using with a metal throated scabbard. Keeps the guard from clanging against the throat entrance. Pretty common on swords. One of the toughest jobs I encountered on the Musso copy was getting the S guard correctly fitted and shaped...

For the acual Musso knife, you will need the 22.5 sized oven, in order to stay away from the coils. I made one, and even with my oven, I felt it was close to being crowded. The Musso blade is 13 3/4" long. This one was made to the blueprint that Joe Musso drew of the original. 01 steel.

I do much the same as you describe, but with an EvenHeat oven. I only lose 15 to 20 degrees between blades. I allow the temp to come back up, then proceed to the next after a couple minutes or so. If you are using 01, you really need to lower your temp to around 1475°. At much higher of temp...

You got it Cliff. I am surprised at the number of folks that did not know what it was. They are available from Tandy and other leather supplies for maybe a dollar. These and other versions of them were the main closures for military leather accessories for a few hundred years.

What Doug said. The palms are usually pretty pithy. However the pith could be filled with epoxy or super glue and probably be fine.

I did kinda make another wood sheath, but only the wood and cover. I had to make it to fit the original silver mounts. The wood had gotten wet in storage and rotted. I used cherry veneer with a thin tight weave cotton cloth cover, followed with 8 or 9 coats of black laquer, per the original...

I do metal throats and tips, but have never made an all metal sheath. Except for a very small one. I also do sword scabbards on occasion. I did one wood sheath covered in ray skin with NS tip and throat

The faces are soldier heads with helmets. Just arty type stuff from the past I guess. Here is a pictorial of making those sheaths. I've never had a blade cut through. They are wet molded to the knife, and cuir bouilli hardened, so I guess that prevents cutting. The wet molding sorta guides the...

I made this one of parts from "The Rifle Shoppe". The original can be found on page 33 in "Swords and Blades of the American Revolution" by George Newmann. It is listed as British, circa 1680 to 1700. The 12" kit blade is of cast 4140 steel, not a great knife steel, but adequate for this...

You are going much too hot for critical. 01 should not be taken beyond 1475° for the hardening, and soaked 15 to 20 minutes. I found that a separate stress relief of an hour at 1200° to 1250° and air cooled to ambient reduced warp, and quenching point down also helped greatly. Your oil might be...

I heat my Parks AAA from 125° to 130°. I'm sure 120° would also be fine. As for breaking, you would just have to bend some samples and see what you get. A thin blade is going to bend/flex much farther than a thick one, and length comes into play also. If you want flex, think long and thin. If...