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Does it turn jet black across the whole piece when you etch it?

You get me on the phone, you'll swear you misdialed and got western Kentucky.

I had to think about this a minute. All of my heat treating starts with a consensus of source materials that I have deemed reliable based on my ability to replicate or measure the outcome in my own shop, with my own equipment. As far as "recipes" or regimens are concerned, I feel that most of...

BTW, a company can, and they often do, name a steel anything they want, and that steel does not necessarily correlate to any of the grading systems.

Wiki is not known for absolute truth, but the grading systems and comparisons seem accurate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel_grades

Lots of good info. If I'm following your process you've described correctly, this is the order: 1) Forge 2) Slow cool anneal in forge. 3) Grind/drill 4) Normalize/thermal cycle 5) Quench 6) Temper 7) Finish grind >insert cracks here< If I have that order right, I expect your cracking...

Domo Arigato, Mr. Roboto.

Yes. I do 2, 2 hour cycles for most everything though. Do one cycle, let cool to room temp, check for straightness. Clamp to angle for straightening, do second cycle, let cool to room temp then unclamp.

Well...woulda look at that. I'm gonna save this pic and look at it whenever I feel I'm getting to far into diy'ing.

I like the ruby red myself. It is kinda translucent and finishes cleaner than most other colors except black. It doesn't go with everything real well but is a nice understated accent to some. I don't finish anything above 400 ever. But I do waaarsh it real good with alcohol, and finish with teak...

My "bushcrafter" model was always meant to emulate the puukko idea. Not in the "purist's notion" of what makes a puukko a puukko, but to my notion that a puukko is just a handy sized belt knife that gets used for most any task that you need a knife for. And my version is FFG like God intended...

I'm posting this particular simple little bushcrafter, not because it's special, but because it was my first international sale. And it was all the way international, nearly clear on the opposite side of the globe to New Zealand. Should I change my name from Steadfast Handcrafted Knives, to...

Yeah it's sorta like a waffle iron but the top plate pivots to stay flat on different thicknesses of material. My mathometry ain't that good, but I think I got it laid out to where it wants to pull down square on the material. Top plate and hardware is probably 40 pounds, but I intend to set it...

The Quench-o-press 9000 is born.

I've had the same Starrett Intenss Pro 18TPI blade on my saw since July 2019. I've cut lots of blade steel on it. I buy 6"+ wide material and cut off the left side of the sheet then add the shaping cuts.

https://usaknifemaker.com/diamond-tri-hone-8.html I don't have the rest of my life to hone a dull knife sharp, so I like to start on something fairly aggressive, courser than 400 or so, refine on a finer stone in 600 to 1000 range, then finish with a strop with medium aggressive compound like...

Being that this is a blacksmithing tool, I'm not sure the removable jaw would be a good deal. If ya do any real beating on it. It's wrought iron, so there ain't nothing hard about it or ever has been. I think I'd build the center out about a 1/4" max thickness and flatten from there. It will...

I need to seem more angles. Grinding flat would be the easiest, but you might be giving up some crucial jaw depth.

I'll hit a point for clarity's sake on drawing the struck end. This is not a step I would ever skip on hard material. I agree tempering the whole part would be of little value. But if it's being struck with a hammer, it needs drawn way down.

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