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I used these for mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B097M8C2DS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Lots of different sizes out there and its easy to cut, drill and tap.

320-400 grit finish. I apply Tung Oil to it, let dry for about 5 minutes minutes and then buff off with a rag/paper towel. It basically darkens the G10, but doesn't effect the grip. Before: and after the Tung Oil:

100% Tung Oil is food safe.

I use Pure Tung Oil on most of my knife handles, regardless if they are G10, Micarta, stabilized wood or non stabilized wood, buffed finish or 400-600 grit finish. I let it soak in and then rub off the excess and do multiple coats. I occasionally use Tru Oil, but I really like Tung Oil better...

Thanks! I used a piece of 1/8" natural canvas micarta as the spacer in both the handle and scabbard. I had to thin the scabbard piece down a bit so it was a tighter fit to get the magnets as close as possible to the blade for the best retention. That handle is very comfy, definetly using that...

OPaul, excellent idea on the spring!! I am going to use that! I found that ACE hardware stores have a HUGE selection of springs from weak to stupidly strong. I was able to get springs there when I made my little Dremel Mill device to slot synthetic guard materials. Some of the springs I got...

Yup!! That's how I did mine! You will love that!

How to Make Knives by Richard Barney and Bob Loveless is a good book! David Boye had a book out, too, but it's an older one. The $50 knife shop is good, too.

Just need to apply a couple more coats of finish and etch the logo and stuff, do the final sharpening! 3.5" Magnacut Drop Point, hand rub satin finish, Natural Canvas Micarta, Red G10 and Black G10 handle and saya. Saya has 2 rare earth magnets in each side panel and it's a tight friction fit...

I think the auto punch may have too much force behind it?

I was surprised at how well it worked when I tried it! But yeah, hammer the inside of the curve, not the outside! I straighten and then grind post HT, so the dimples usually come out.

Those look nice and a larger radius than my 5/32" drill bit one I made! Gotta get some stuff sold so I can order one! I did one with a 5/32" carbide bit. Drilled into an old ball peen hammer head with the drill, ground a small rounded oval onto the solid end, broke it off at the flutes and...

Yeah, the CA glue works, but it's not as nice as compression!

I have been doing them with just a little compression as I am gluing them and then when I get close to the final shape/dimension, I soak them in very thin CA glue. This hardens them up and they take a nice shine! But you may lose the feel of the leather since the CA is soaked into it. I guess...

Here is AmeriBrade's version: https://www.ameribrade.com/kit-products/pre-sale-waterfall-integral-plunge-wip-attachment Goes with the small wheel attachment to use wheels for the plunges itself

Working on a new project! Customer wanted something where the handle and sheath matched and looks like one piece. Using magnets to hold the blade in too is another first for me! Magnacut blade, 3.5" long, hand rubbed to 600 so far. Going to do the final clean up and pointing after the sheath...

I've seen similar platens before, often called a WaterFall Platen. They help with plunge cuts and getting them even, too. EDM stones also take a lot of time off hand sanding as well!

You need a set of these rainbow trout scales for that billet!

Decided to use up some small damascus blanks I had lying around! Cut out 4 of these medallions just over 1" wide and made 3 keychain pendants for a co worker for his wife and almost 1 year old baby for Valentines day!

I use sandpaper after the last EDM stone to clean up the final finish. They can leave deep scratches if you use too much pressure, so it's getting used to how they work, too.