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Thanks, MtBob.

But I would humbly ask all who do this to pause a moment and think long and hard about the potential negative environmental impacts before doing this. How many of us would add something like this to their livestock feed before butchering? (mods can delete if you feel this is an inappropriate...

Is it one of the Viel made machines?

Isn't that what the press is for?

Just watched a Youtube video about the Viel AF-5 which looks like that and it looks like it shouldn't take much MacGyvering to get it to do serrations. There might be a better tool for that, though.

I'd be curious as to the price also. If you do end up picking it up, and find it works but that you don't make enough bread knives, I might be interested as I've been wanting to add bread knives to my repertoire, but haven't figured out an easy way to do good uniform serrations yet.

When I saw the dremel, my first thought was, "what needs carbidizing?" because last night on the NWBA Knifemaker's Corner, Luke Dellmyer demonstrated how he uses his etching unit and this dremel unit to carbidize his titanium liner lock on folders.

That turned out great. Thanks for sharing pics and the mention. (btw, I think you can ignore the message I posted on the other forum now that I see this one....) Stay safe

Hello all. I'm not sure if this is the way I should disseminate this information, but there's a guy in Ontario (not sure what city) who is looking for a damascus chef's knife with a stated budget of at least $500 that was looking for suggestions on Kitchenknifeforums. I suggested that he look...

I don't see any reason why it couldn't be. The design looks like all the stress would be from the billet out But I think that having the bottom die moving upwards would take some getting used to. It'll be a little tougher to keep things flat and square because you'll have to constantly adjust...

Looks like Chris beat me, but I do use it frequently when using the press to straighten out the billet when needed. I guess that could be done with the flat dies on the press, but a lot of times it's just easier to whack the billet with a hammer rather than switch out the dies. Even with a...

I guess that depends, but I use the anvil on every blade and almost every billet at least for straightening things.

Here's a picture of some of the square team pawns out of the etch, before final cleaning and spraying with black GunKote.

Not necessarily. I chose 1 1/8" squares because, IMO, this has the right proportions for the chess pieces I'm making.

I hear you, the holly is softer, but nothing like pine. It's tough to dig my fingernail into the surface, so I'm not too worried. IMO, this is not much different than what we deal with when finishing a handle with pins. Just have to be careful. Fortunately, I'm not one who needs to get to...

Would you be open to some PM questions if/as they come up seeing as how you have very specific experience? My idea too, thin and light. Are you saying the individual squares (planning on 1 1/8" sq) should be 3/4" thick or the total thickness of the board (plywood backing included) should be...

Thank you for all the info. You're right, and I guess I should be more exact. It is African Blackwood that I have, I have always called that ebony. My bad, sorry. I'm also thinking of a couple different ways to add trim pieces framing up the grid to hide the seams similar to the way floor...

Hello all. I want to make a chess board for the damascus pieces I'm making, and I was planning on using ebony and holly for the squares. I have a supply of boards ~3/32" thick that I'm going to cut into ~1 1/4" squares that I was planning on gluing to a backboard, and wondering if there's any...

That's why they're considered capital.... ;)

Thanks, Ken! Can't wait to hear how you like it, but even moreso, see pics!