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Ok here is one I have been working on. The blade has a hamon, the guard and spacer are wrought iron and the handle is snakeskin sycamore. I still have some work to do but before I go any please tell me if this looks disproportional to anyone. Does the handle need to be bigger?

Ok so I think I got some bad wrought iron. I was making a guard and shaped it to rough shape I threw it in the forge to finish up the shaping of the guard. I put it in for about 10 min and when I returned it was a blob of metal in my forge. This stuff had melted. I have used this bar before on...

ok Ill look for it

Thanks There are a couple of us in this area. If you are up to it I would be willing to meet up some time.

Very Nice

Hey I am just down the road from you in Clayton. I think maybe 30 min. Welcome

I just ran over it agin with 1000 grit and it completely disappeared. I then just rubed etchant over the blade skipping the tip and it turned out fine.

80 grit before ht. but that is definatly a possibility. I have never seen it before. What do i do to fix it?

That ti what I am trying to figure out. It is completely smooth you cant feel it when you run you finger across it or even try to catch it with your finger nail.

There is no belt. I grind to 400 with the belt and then hand sand from 220 to 600 in a criss cross patern and then from 800 to 1000 the length of the blade.

It is 3/8 thick. I am sure everything was gone between each grit. I worked it to 1000 grit twice it was without scratch when I etched it both times. This spot when etched was still silver when the rest was black.

Ok I have taken this knife down to 1000 grit two times and each time I etch it it looks like it has 36 grit scratches just at the tip. I have no idea what is going on. Has anyone seen this before or had it happen to them? The blade material is W2 I got from from Aldo about 1.5 years ago.

Ill be there. I will be at table 19Q.

Ok i am finishing up some knives for the blade show. Here is one I am working on and need some opinions. Should I cap the end and file it to the stage or should I leave it and justround off the edges polish up the end of the stag?

I think I may have some. I will check when I get home.

very nice

How do you get the coining so deep? My checkering file only goes so deep. Do you then go over it with another file or do you have a deep set checkering file?

Thanks for the advice! I rehted it and used salt brine and now I have some of the most active hamons I have ever done. I guess 1075 does not like canola oil.

Ok I am perplexed. I am trying to get a hamon on some knives but it is not working very well. I have switched over to 1075 from normal w2 or 1095. I am applying the clay as usual but getting different results. Here is how I am applying the clay Normally I would get a hamon close to what...

Welcome Mark!