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That is outstanding! Did you cast the bronze fitting, or make it from solid stock?

It was so cold this last weekend that teenage boys actually pulled up their pants!

They form it cold. I saw steve culver do a demo on this a while back. I'd suggest giving him a call.

Teddy, your inbox is full and can't receive messages.

This may be stating the obvious, but wouldn't it make sense to call Aldo and ask him? From what I hear he's a "by the phone" type of guy, and rarely has all of his stock on his website.

K, Did you build your own burner, and if so, what plan did you use? If not, which did you buy?

It's a bit lightweight, but with a 2inch layer of kaowool and some slight mods for tool rests and whatnot, can anyone think of a reason this wouldn't work for a vertical forced air forge? It's a Christmas popcorn tin, maybe 14-16 inches tall and about 12 wide.

There is a very recent, very long thread HERE on the ABS forum about this very subject. Apparently the keys are long soak time in the forge in a very reducing atmosphere. Some have had success doing this even leaving forge scale ON. I'm very curious about this; everyone hates flux.

Thanks Kevin. I was headed the right direction but slightly off track. Thanks for the clarification.

I heard our own Kevin Cashen mention this in a lecture a while back, and the answer made perfect sense. I don't remember what the answer was though. I have a few ideas, but I don't want to spread misinformation by sharing a very incomplete understanding.

That's pretty dang funny. I've left the gun sitting on top of the welder with the trigger engaged (accidentally) and came back half a minute later with 15-20 ft of wire uncoiled on the floor. But then, who hasn't done that?

I think I'm in. Depends on a few things outside my control, but I have just the thing if it works out. Good idea, even if it doesn't.

Good point. It was a great time, frozen pants and all.

A while back I started some damascus while at my friend Jim's house, and ran out of time before I had to go back home. I was out again this weekend, and after a long and cold and ultimately unsucessful Saturday of deer hunting, in which my pants literally froze solid (thank God for good long...

Roger, if it were a full tang I don't see why you wouldn't pin on bolsters from the sides. It's much simpler, and stronger too. In fact, that's what I usually do if I want some sort of pommel/buttcap/rear bolster on a full tang. My original reply assumed stick tangs, as does Wick's above. If...

Here is a quick sketch that essentially summarizes a presentation I saw Dave Lisch do. I spent the rest of that day and the next at the ABS Expo asking Mastersmiths and Journeymen how they do it, and the answers didn't change much other than the aforementioned screws. My handwriting isn't...

Are you referring to a pommel/buttcap? A bolster is usually pinned on to the sides, but it doesn't sound like that's what you're asking about. Buttcaps (which really need another name, but I don't know of one) can be attached to the end of the tang via a soldered on threaded nut, by epoxy with...

I should clarify and say that I would expect no changes at all for anything other than simple carbon steels, and very little even then, if any. I agree with Kevin's statement that you mention above. I am fairly comfortable with my HT procedure(s) for 10xx steels, and, though I've not noticed any...

A related question/issue: I think I remember Kevin saying once that for simpler carbon steels (10xx), even a night spent in the freezer would help somewhat to "zap" the retained austenite. I expect that whatever effect this has, it would not be as dramatic as what would be found either with a...

I am planning to build a forge, eventually. Several of them, actually, because I don't expect there to be one design that will do everything I want. I'll build a forge for welding (or maybe a couple for different applications), and I have a clear idea of what I want it (them) to be like. I...