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Much respect Gliden, But personally I think it's good to support the US economy right now.

Second knife is in the recycle bin. I had a hard time refining the grain, so it was getting smaller and smaller like this one. This video has additional photos on the grind and shows a knife with a fuller higher up from the edge than most of the other yakut knives I've seen so far online...

Making knife parts Got some fit up done on the front bolster, spacer, and the handle material. Rear bolster was about done, but the hole was off centered, so it's not going to work. I might try my first heirloom fit on this knife.

Wow, good job. I've always been scared to try.

Since the handle material is already pretty old and not stabilized, I'm doing two bolsters with a tang extension. Even though it is weathered it will clean up. Honestly, I hope I didn't create a weak area above the bolster and I have this for a long time.

Thanks, I'll search it up a little, too,. Now I have more of an idea what to watch for and I'll look at the Puronvarsis. I'd like to see how to sharpen grinds that come to zero. I want to figure out this knife - how it works and how it sharpens. I used it a little and the flat/convex...

how much meat do you want just behind the edge on a a puukko? is a puukko a bushcrafter?

What is your take on a scandi grind? i haven’t done one before. do you run the primary bevels all the way to the edge?

I do want to make another one already. Larger, with a fuller forged closer to the edge. The metal didn’t want to move into the opposite side like i thought too, b/c the anvil face. It spread out the width, which makes sense, too. You can tell by that last picture. I had’t ground out the bow in...

I did some rough shaping on it tonight. I brought the bevels down to what seemed to be a realistic width. I ground too far again

I agree, I think it's meant for bushcraft, hunting, etc. I don't think it's what I'd want for any kind of food prep. But the videos mention food prep, so maybe with some experimenting, you could figure out the right edge geometry for even starchy foods. Mine will be small, so I could do that...

at about 3:42 Combine that picture with dc knives grind calculator for adjustng to the height of the blade. Then land at about .030 - .020 behind the edge? That's where I'm at for now, until I get back out there. Thanks for the videos. I'll have a look here pretty soon.

That's whats kinda got me. I only have a second. Check out shurap on you tube. He's got a good video and link to his website and an article you can translate on google. It leaves some words translated wrong, but you can kind of get the idea with context. - kinda - I'm still working on...

Thanks, yep, there's are a lot of videos on you tube about these, including as knife show exhibitions. The steel is a bearing race. Since the blade turned out so small, I'm not sure how I'm going to use it, so not sure what kind of handle to make... mainly the size. I'll probably use plain...

Here's a couple more pictures of the progress I made: Even with the extra forging I had to be careful how much I grinded away. Out of the temper oven today. 3 two hour cycles at 400, Didn't come out as long as I'd hoped. I need to double check the grinding specs and decide on the handle.

I like learning about northern knives and pulling from traditional concepts. I'm intrigued about the grind on yakut knives so I'm going to make one. I don't know all the different ways, but I'm going for basic cross section. Still need to find out the edge spec. I think it tapers to nothing...

Not much to look at but it works well. The plywood underneath makes for a larger footprint to keep it from sinking into the snow.

Those floating hamons are pretty slick!

Hi Bob, here are a couple I looked at. Mikko Snellman on you tube and https://forum.igkt.net/index.php?topic=1477.0

Excellent, thanks!