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Finished the spacer. Drilled and tapped a new thumb stud hole. It opens easier now. I think the next one I do will have a proper ball bearing for the detent. The set screw will work but it's not optimal. Jake

The screw will be loctited and staked in place. Another issue is the thumb stud is placed too far back. I really can't get enough leverage to open it. I'm going to make another hole a little forward of the first one. This is a great learning experience. Jake

Brandant, your idea for locating the detent pin worked great. Since I don't have any small ball bearings I used a screw. One problem might be the hole is too close to the front of the lock bar. No big deal I can make another one. Jake

That makes perfect sense. I'll try it. Thanks Brandant. Nice blog by the way. Jake

Daniel, I put off this for too long. I thought I needed a milling machine. Work with what you got. I do have a 9x20 lathe that I'm going to use to make the final pivot pin. My advice is go ahead and do it Jake

I cut the lock bar. The stainless seems to have enough spring for it to function. The stop pin needs to be moved a little forward. Nevermind I didn't have the stop pin all of the way in. The blade locks up with a satisfying click. Now I have to think about what I'm going to do about the detent...

Looks good. A lot of hobby gun builders use routers. Kind of a redneck milling machine. Jake

Thanks Brandant. I'll try what Mike suggested. I just checked the stainless with a magnet and it sticks. I don't know if that matters or not. Jake

Thanks guys. The lock bar is from a piece of stainless steel I got from work. I don't think it's heat treatable to get a spring temper to it. I'd like to try Ti but that stuff is too expensive and I wouldn't want to mess it up. I'm thinking of a different style of locking system. Maybe an Axis...

Well after messing around with the Draftsight CAD program I came up with a rough design for a liner lock. The blade is O1 and still needs work. The liners are from a sheet of SS I got at work. Unfortunately it seems non heat treatable so I have come up with a way to lock the blade open. This is...

I got a pottery kiln for a good price just for the fire brick. I'm still trying to get the heating elements to "chooch". Jake

Well the guy that has the wood has a couple of logs of it. He got it during the yew bark craze in the late 90's and planned to make a couple of bows. Apparently this wood has a light yellowish color with a red heart wood. He says it looks good and since it was offered to me I think I'll get a...

Hey guys. A guy that I work with offered me some yew wood for knife handles. Has anyone used yew for handles? I've never have seen yew wood. Jake

Very cool. I'm thinking of attempting a folder. Thanks for taking the time for sharing your process. Jake

Ok. I downloaded Draftsight. Wow. It's awesome. I found a YouTube video that Mike Stewart (Ekim Knives) made. After about two hours I actually drew up a very rudimentary lock back knife. I like it. I know there's problems with the design but I just wanted to get a feel for the Draftsight...

Really nice. Jake

That looks great. I like the natural Micarta. Jake

Right now I'm trying to learn Freecad. Has a lot of interesting features. But since I'm new to CAD the learning curve is huge. I think I'll give Draftsight a look Jake

Thanks guys. I'm still a learning alot about the magic pixies that make this stuff work. Jake

I ment to say Ranger Regiment. Actually no idea on how to make the scroll in to a stencil. Maybe have it laser etched? Jake