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I guess it depends on what you want. Their grade 3 is essentially "utility grade" leather. it's going to have scars and marring on the hide. It will also be less consistent thickness and density wise. I always give the advice to buy the best you can afford to buy. Even if you have to buy less...

just a note on this....safe movers put large things into basements and bedrooms all the time. I had a Bridgeport moved up 2 flights of steps in a friends' machine shop. We also moved a 9 ft engine lathe up there the same day. Safe movers have a thing called a stair climber that will move...

Just be careful, the cheap ones are usually have 3 phase motors.

they are only going to be a few inches square chunks, essentially cutoff scrap...

there are several books just on making leather sheaths. Tandy leather has three or four (literally), The ABS has a couple of articles, there are absolutely tons of resources on this. To answer a question needle size is directly correlated to thread size. For a saddle stitch, use two needles...

Most sheaths are made from 9-10oz veg tanned "tooling" leather. That isn't to say that you can't use other things and some do but that is what I have always used and made hundreds and hundreds of custom knife sheaths. If you are making simple sheaths and not needing them dyed or tooled you...

If you can't go and select your own, wicket and craig is your best choice. Find a herman oak leather dealer, go there and select your own. You won't be sorry.

Just sent you a PM here.

So far it is working really well.

The oversized ribbon burner is absolutely the way to go. I really like how fast it heats up.

Didn't we just have this conversation last week with the question of milling machine or HT oven? I doubt there are many pro's here without the grizzly unit. It seems to be a standard fixture in just about every shop I have seen. I've never heard of the PM....not to say that it's a bad machine...

Sorry I didn't see this question. I'm not really sure how fuel efficient it is. I haven't used up a 20 gallon BBQ cylinder yet but I can tell you I already have about 1/3 more time on it than I did with my two burner atmospheric forge. Keep in mind the bottle isn't empty yet. So maybe I already...

Meh....yew isn't a particularly pretty wood, at least not to me. I have a couple of self bows made out of yew and it's sort of a light mustard color. That of course is my opinion. It has a really long and straight grain which would make it great for stabilizing or dying I think.

here's the CNC kit for it.... https://procutcnc.com/product/grizzly-g0704-cnc-mill-conversion-kit/

Here's the other one I would consider. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill/G0758

The one I will be getting here shortly is the G0704. It's Right in your price range and it's a dang nice machine. Ed has one in his shop that I was using to make a titanium folder. It's a nice general purpose that has the fine control you'll need and it's a quality piece of machinery. I'm...

Some kits have the DRO as an add on. Until then, you'll really want it on the machine. It's the best thing since sliced white bread.

PS....I'm scared to death of any precision machines that harbor Freight sells. I've seen two in person that were brand new with run out in the 0.100"...not to say they are junk but well.....they kinda are.

If you're going to spend that money, put a little more with it and get the grizzly with digital readouts. It's worth every penny. I've worked on one and its a super nice machine. Sort of a knife maker standard. Also, after you save a little more you can convert it to full CNC if you want for...

Washington state. He's looking for a local pickup but there's always a shipper willing to go get it.