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Latest Ti Framelock with Anodizing done.

Just Flamed Anodized this Ti Framelock- just need to grind the blade. This is the 5th Ti Framelock I have built now- getting the hang of it!

I use calipers to get an apprx length marked out- then chuck pivot into a collet on the mill- put a carbide end mill in the vise and bring the pivot barrel down to size ( reverse lathe method)

New tool for the shop- will be putting in some work for my first frame and liner locks. Any and all milling tips and advice welcome!

Thanks the mention and happy to provide a discount for a fellow KD member- just reach me direct

ordered!

I am also in NJ- Welcome

Slim Primo Mini EDC CLeaver

Have had and used the HF bandsaw in a Swag table for almost 3 years now- works perfectly and probably the 2nd most used tool for me (after the 2x72) Use MK Morse blades from Amazon

Took your advice today next day Amazon prime on some solid carbide bits--it blew through the hardened steel like butter!! Nothing else I had was even able to touch it but the carbide was unreal!!

Forgetting to drill holes in five knives before I send them out for heat treat and not realizing it until I get them back!!! Too distracted I guess? Fortunately I was able to grind out a slot in the middle of the handle using the small wheel and a 36 grit belt. I won't be making that mistake again!

3 small neck knives almost ready- handles came out great and moving on to some Kydex Woods are Jataboa, Wenge and Zebrawood

Think I gave this info to Opaul once- I use these for smaller blades- pretty nice for the price. I have been looking for a wooden wine box for kitchen knives- think that would just about be right. Magnetic box And I have been using these for larger blades and kitchen knives: Cordura case

When I do a lanyard tube- I put a short length of silicone tubing (with the same OD as the lanyard's ID)--in the lanyard tube itself during glue up- nothing sticks to the silicone and when everything is dry and set- the tube pulls right out. In the same token- I also use a sheet pan size...

Here is a scrap of AEB-L that hasn't been HT'd- just put a quick vine design on with nail polish- then hit it with just the mark voltage- came out same as if Heat Treated

I use a 12 v AC/DC variable power supply that was initially for school lab use ( bought used on Ebay) it is 6 amps. I use it at the full 12 V and 6 amp I first deep etch then switch to darken the mark- each pass is held for just a few seconds- and I do about 6 times each. I got my stencils...

Almost finished with this Santuko- AEB-L with Cryo and beautiful Koa with Blue liners and Copper pins. Just need a final polish and sharpening.

Put together a quick "down and dirty" fixture this weekend to secure my Bevel Jig bodies when drilling and tapping. Should have down it long ago. Much safer and I can already see this improving the process as well as speeding it up. 1/2 thick Aluminum bottom plate with the 90 degree fixed- and...

Thanks Ed- I think I figured out the issues- Firstly, the back jaws on the Tapmatic were not "centered" I had to loosen the 2 tiny set screws and then insert my tap- then tighten each equally. This was a big part of it. Secondly, I decreased the distance of where the stop arm was contacting...

Just have to fine tune some aspects- the stop arm doesn't just rest against a stop bar I set up- it actually clanks and hits it with each up and down- so not sure what I may be doing wrong on that front.