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That is definitely a masterpiece. John's work is something to aspire to. I will say that when I clicked on it, I was expecting a cross guard of some sort with bowie in the description. I guess the clip is the bowie part of it? I'm just now diving into the world of bowies. Amazing work. Cody

Cool. Looking forward to seeing some pics. I'm not at the shop but have a picture I snapped the other day for some reason. Could probably get some better ones but.. there's a KMG in there somewhere which is my main bevel grinder. Never really used any work rests on my 2x72s. I do use one on the...

I'm always a little hesitant to recommend a grinder. Like I said earlier, I don't use work rests or tool rests on my 2x72s. Some people will find those essential. I use a flat platen for my flat grinds and a small wheel to get into finger grooves and other curves. And occasionally I'll use a...

You have to contact them for them to cut you a longer piece. You don't want the 4" long one; you want something 10" at least. The beauty of the post anvils like this is that all the weight of the anvil is directly under your hammer blows. This makes it work like a much larger anvil. My 85lb post...

The best forge you're gonna get is one you build yourself (also cheapest). Now when you start thinking burners... I'd highly recommend building a blown burner. They are stupid simple to construct and work without being fussy (just be sure to have a needle valve on the propane and some way to...

Mine varies from about 25" to 34" depending on what attachment you're using. The small wheel attachment being the furthest out. Now if you're talking about just the frame, all 3 of my grinders are close to 19" deep

This is also how I've seen an ABS mastersmith do it on a 8" contact wheel. He also scribed a line for the bottom of the bevel on each side identically so he had a line to work down to.

I've always just emailed him and told him what I want. He ships it with an invoice and then I mail him a check once I get the package and invoice.

Also note that Kelly offers free shipping on steel orders over $100 which is pretty amazing.

Grinding it can definitely clear your sinuses. I'd say definitely want it stabilized. I've used it once before and seemed a little soft even after having it professionally stabilized Great looking knife. That tang goes down crazy thin!

Was experimenting with some different lamination stuff. This is not San Mai. You can probably tell since it continues through the tang. Little hidden tang neck knife. Just gotta do the guard and handle now. Edit: CruForge V at the edge. 4140 towards the spine with a piece of nickel in between.

Looks right. I'm not sure what speed your old motor was. The one you got is the 1800rpm. If you find you want more speed, I believe the kbac has a doubling feature. Some people prefer to use 1800rpm and then double the speed. Gives you more torque on the low end.

Do you think you are pushing the limit of the 1.5hp motor? My grinders run on 2hp and I've never really felt like I needed to upgrade. I think part of it depends on the style of grinding of the individual. Also, you can get a 3ph 1.5hp motor and a vfd and run it on 110v. I know you can with the...

A few months ago I had just sharpened a hatchet and went outside to do some chopping with it to test the edge. I was not being very careful and within the first 3 chops, I had swung down towards my feet... the hatchet skipped off a log and bumped into my ankle. I thought to myself "that was a...

I know the struggle very well on keeping the core centered. This blade was made by Murray Carter. He was an early inspiration of mine so I had purchased a few of his blades. Was just using it as an example. I imagine the rolling mill I just built would do a pretty good job keeping it centered...

I think any plain carbon would act about the same and just get darker with more use. Here's one in my kitchen. This is a high carbon core after several years of use with stainless sides. Was no etching ahead of time just patina from use. Edit: Now that I think about it. I believe more...

I'm the same way. I've wanted to try a ribbon burner for a long time. I'm currently very happy with my current setup and I try to tell myself "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". My main bladesmithing forge is a small vertical with about a 5" heat which is all I work on a knife in a single heat...

That is the one. Also note that the only switch that comes standard on them is the start/stop switch. If you want to reverse the motor during use, you need to buy that switch. Also some people add the power on/off switch to it. It's not necessary but unless you plug/unplug it or have another...

I'm not an expert but I would check your input power and make sure it is still the correct voltage as well as wiring connections. Not sure what else could be done if it wont turn on at all. As for selecting a new drive... I think just about everyone would recommend one of the nema 4x rated kbac...

Well, unless you're using a hold down tool, you've got one hand holding the flatter and the other with a hammer. So, I'm typically holding the blade down with the flatter (especially if I'm doing bevels where the ricasso and tang need to be off of the anvil). I strike and just move as quickly as...