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I've made a lot of kitchen knives from 1/16th 15n20. I do all grinding after heat treat and I also do what others suggest. Once I quench, and the blade is still hot I will clamp them between two 1 inch thick aluminium plates.

I'm not sure if he has books, but Kevin does have a DVD on the ABS website. I've been to a few hammer-ins where Kevin talked about heat treating, he definitely knows his stuff. Here is a link to the dvd at the ABS store...

Nice! That's awesome!

Don't give up on it quite yet! How far up the bevel did it get hot, and what color did the steel turn. How much thickness do you still have at the edge? If you still have thickness it's possible to just heat it up to austenization temp and quench again. If not, you can always change the blade...

Very nice....I've been in the slow process of getting my vertical forge done. Trying to get my air/fuel mixture right...these blown forges are a little more picky than my venturi burner forge

That sucks, I've done that before as well, but not that bad! Needlenose pliers man...I can't do stitching without them anymore, my fingers start cramping after a few minutes.

Nothing like a little procrastination for the holidays! Mine was just shipped out today. Good news is that it has a expected delivery date of 12/23 :) Merry Christmas all!

I'll give another vote for AEB-L and one also for CPM-154. AEB-L is best for the price though

So, because of life events. Neck surgery at the end of last year, baby girl being born in July, I haven't really made many knives this year. I've been working on my JS knives VERY slowly hoping to get them ready for blade show in June. I did take 1 order this year, a local guy wanted matching...

That's amazing Mark....well done

So this is a san mai billet that I forged. Think of it as a steel sandwich. a203e steel on the outsides and 1075 in the middle. The a203e has a high nickel content so it etches light and the 1075 is high in manganese, so it etches almost black. I etched in diluted ferric chloride for a short...

Since you already have a KBAC27 I'll tell you what I did. I took the output from the vfd and wired it into a 4 prong dryer outlet. Then I got 2 4 prong dryer cords and wired them into my motors for my grinder and my disc grinder...Now when I want to use one or the other I just plug them into the...

Nice one man! I like it!

Thanks for the nice comments guys!

Thanks brother...I'm planning on trying to find a mill! If I can't find one, I'm gonna get the equipment to do some hot bluing :) I wish more people would have finished...you included, that hamon looked sweet!

Love how clean you knives look! Great site

Hey guys, So over on Facebook in a group called the Real Knifemakers of America we had a competition. This was build-off #4 and the design was an Arkansas toothpick. Here is my entry that won 1st place and $1000! As most of you probably know the best time to take pictures of your knives is on...

Sean, you're right, walnut does not need to be stablized, but I have plenty of it that is. That's why I posted both.

I'm in, and I'll add WV to the state list

Hey Sean, is this piece stablized or not? If it's stablized you can just take it up to 1500-2000 grit and buff. When I sand I'll use tung oil or tru-oil as the lubricant. This helps to fill in the very small pores. If it's not stablized, I'll do similar to others and build layers of either...