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Those look pretty cool. I currently use the Milwaukee tool permanent markers. They will mark on dust, oil, whatever you need. But as you said, they don't last too long. I will definitely look into those!

Kyle is a very talented guy, a little eccentric, but super talented for sure. I've spoken with him at blade a few times and he is always more than willing to give advice.

Looks great!

Good luck with your surgery Gene. I had 3 discs removed and fused in 2018. I'm still not 100%. I definitely feel better than I did before the surgery though! Worst part after the surgery is trying to eat and swallow. I had about a week of applesauce, pudding and soup. My thoughts are with you!

Thanks man...I love the crinkle on that one...it's my favorite type of Koa! I still have yet to use the other ones I got from you, but they are gonna go on some higher end knives :)

I'll take #10

I've also made some filets out of 15n20, but most of the ones I've made are AEB-L. Whenever I need some stainless heat treated I get with another local knife maker that uses a lot and we send them off in a big batch and split the cost

Found it, took a while since it was back in 2017. The user I bought from is artofbali

I got my ferric from Amazon, don't think there was a wait when I got it. And I did get my powder from eBay...let me find the seller I got it from.

I have not. The only powder I have used is the 1500 SC. From what I understand sandpaper has sharp grits, but the powder is more rounded. So my thinking would be sandpaper would be better for removing material and the powder for finishing. You might get a nice satin finish with ending with the...

Thanks for the comments guys. I'm gonna pass on some info that Ed told me at Blade show 4 years ago. "This may not be the best way to do it, but this is how I do it and it works for me" There is always multiple ways to get to your end result. Try a few and find out what works best for you!

So the thing about decarb is that you need to grind it off to get a clean surface as it is deeper than the visual surface. Decarb is spots on the blade where the carbon leaves the steel, and leaves that area as spots that kind of look like little bubbles. So if you already have thin stock and...

You might want to check out people who make pen blanks. They make them in a larger mold then cut them down

I remember bending my gijoe soldiers in half and sticking firecrackers in the hole between them :)

I love fire lol

Never tried this but could you heat it up with a propane torch and let it drip off? Then the remaining would just be a thin layer that wouldn't clog?

Hey Tracy...do you think with the added chromium that you'd be able to get a hamon with the 50100?

I've never used canola, but I've heard it works ok for shallow hardening steels if you heat it up to around 130 first. Use a candy thermometer and take a piece of steel and heat it up to red in the oven or forge and quench it...that will bring the temp of your oil up. Then quench your 1075

Here is a video of my hamon etching and polishing process. It's a little long at about 14 minutes, but I think it's pretty good info. Also, I learned something about myself....I have "Sanding/polishing Dimples" lol

I can make one up for you in pdf form that you can print out. What dimensions would you like. Handle length, blade height?