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Hey guys, I've been making knives with hamons for years but some of it is still a mystery to me. I hoping maybe Kevin can help out with a scientific approach to the issues I am having. When I first started making knives with hamons I used 1095 or w2 with rutlands black furnace cement, quenched...

I also use a grobet 20 lpi checkering file. And I also do as Ed does, tilt the file to get my initial lines, then flatten it out and use the initial lines as guides to seat the file in.

Where are you located and do you think this may have been a local person? I've found a few old millitary records with that name, in Arkansas and California

I've had experience on the big blue and both coal iron works. They are not bad presses. The best C frame press I used was from backbone Ironworks, which unfortunately stopped making them last year. Because of cost I ended up building my own H frame. I think all in all I had about $1800 in mine...

First knife of 2021 done finally. I've got to get in gear to make some knives for the Spirit of the Blade show the first weekend of March. As it stands I'll have 1 knife on my table! This one! 416ss/1095 san mai with black g10 and stainless spacers and a box elder burl handle. I love the way...

I do similar to what Ed does, but with a few differences. I also use the slack portion just above the platen, but what I do is run my belt in reverse at a very slow speed with the blade edge up. This way I can see the burr form on the blade edge and then move to the other side and create a burr...

Sweet looks good! Glad to help

If you're are worried about your pin hole location in the tang you can do as someone suggested on here the other day...drill out your pin hole larger and peen some brass into the larger hole and re-drill

Here is my guard jack setup...piece of metal with a slot for the tang with 2 countersunk holes for the bolts to push against. A larger threaded piece of metal with a slot, and 2 long bolts. Clamp the tang in the vice to hold it and crank the crap out of the bolts until you get the guard on!

As you see in the last pic...its so tight it's causing the guard to bubble up a little around the slot, which is good...now I'm going to pop it back off and clean up the face and get it to final polish and then ill press it back on.

So here are some quick pics. I also use a guard jack to press fit guards. If you're not sure what that is I can show pictures and explain.

I'm working on a guard right now...let me take a couple pics.

Ok these are new to me, where do you get them? I only have the 337DC

Also, to tighten up your gaps, this is what I do. Take a 4 inch piece of 3/16 or 1/4 stainless pin stock and round one end. Put the guard on something solid, I use the small anvil built into my vice. Then I take the rounded pin stock and peen where my gaps are pushing the metal toward the...

If there is any visible gap you're going to see the color of whatever you put in there as well...silver solder is pretty bright and shiny, and jb weld is dull and grey. Just another thing to consider, but both will work fine. Like was said before, the biggest thing its doing is making sure...

From what I understand they are still planning on having it, I've had a table every year. I can imagine though that buyer attendance would be down, but who knows.

@Jesse Latham I really like the profile of that one stuck in the tree..very nice!

That's awesome...you'll have a great time and should learn a ton. I hung out with Jordan a bit at a hammer-in in Maine at the new England school of metalwork...he is an awesome guy and super smart!

Air pocket!

I will 2nd just about everything Ed said. I mig weld all the way around the outside of the billet and throw it into the forge. Taking some advice from Karl Andersen, I leave the billet in the forge for 17 and a half minutes. That is the advice Karl got from Bill Wiggins when he first started...