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Do it Jeff! Join the crowd brother! I haven’t heard of a single person regretting it.

Oh no...I’m nothing special.... Travis Wuertz is a TRUE genius, who designed a fantastic tool. I was simply blessed with great “searching” ability. And... I’m super CHEAP! LOL:D I can pinch two-bits into a couple dimes & a nickel! Seriously, just as all of us doing this, I have a true passion...

Welcome to the “DIY SGA Builders Guild”! Travis Wuertz designed an amazing machine that some like us could duplicate. All it took was finding the parts & figuring out how to build a magnetic Chuck. Yes.. that certainly is some thread on Blade Forums. Who was it that started that thread again...

I use Cobalt M42 drill bits, and Carbide end mills. I use CPM3V & CPM20CV steel exclusively. M2 hss becomes dull far too quickly. I don’t like fighting with drilling. M42 & Carbide simply cut better & last longer...period. This isn’t an opinion, it’s fact. M42 bits don’t cost all that much more...

Depends on the steel. The steels I use laugh at those step drills. Although the simple Carbons should respond fine. But I have a mill. You are already using your Dremel....have you tried a Tungsten Carbide burr?

The very FIRST thing I said in post #7 “You’ll be ok. The Poshland forge welded steel is typical 1095/15N20, albeit WAY overpriced, will work as any other forge weld stuff.” It’s ok to have opinions. I respect each of yours... And I agree it will make a fine knife for the OP. I was the FIRST...

It’s pattern welded, 1095/15N20. But as we all know, that means the edge is 1095. This is the main reason I don’t like pattern welded steel. It’s not a homogeneous body. The long standing myth that this fake “Damascus” is somehow STRONGER, because the main steel is welded with a weaker...

Grain refinement is a series of ever lower temp heatings and cool downs thus reducing grain size. Read up on Kevin Cashen’s grain refinement recipe. His is the best I’ve read about. Or PM him. He’s a member here. Or... Just read this.http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1095.html

Honestly, I think you should ditch the mineral oil. Get some Parks instead. You are not going to get 1095 with the mineral oil as it’s more a “slow” quenchent. 1095 needs a faster quench oil and almost EVERYONE who uses 1095....uses Parks!

You’ll be ok. The Poshland forge welded steel is typical 1095/15N20, albeit WAY overpriced, will work as any other forge weld stuff. Everyone knows my opinion of forge weld steel, but it does look nice. My take is always grinding the bevels AFTER heat treating! My reason on this being it gives...

I didn’t find anything controversial about your thread....and I certainly wasn’t replying in that way. Was simply giving my take on what I know to be facts about files. I’m sorry none of what I said was what you were looking for. I can delete it all if you’d like to?

What is your observation on how files have changed exactly? Nicholson files have for decades been known to be good files. They were the first quality machine made files. But in more recent years they are made in many different countries, and reports of quality have been according. Good files...

Greetings friends. Been quite awhile since I’ve been around. Couple of you may remember me. I left all public forums & was not planning to return. But some words from a good friend, and I’ve been swayed to check in. I actually went through a spell and didn’t touch a single blade. Unfortunately...

I haven’t purchased the bowl blocks, as I don’t use much wood at a time. But I have settled on using Lignum Vitae exclusively, and always purchase the turning blanks when I do. Typically they are 1.5” squared x 6 or 12, etc. long. And you are correct....,it’s MUCH less expensive like this!

This is my home built. I designed it entirely. Didn’t use any existing designs to go by. Built from 1018 cold roll and 2024/7075 billet. Used the cast iron housing from my old HF 4x36 belt sander as a base. Powered by a 1.5hp, 3ph Dayton motor. Not really much I “don’t” like about it. It runs...

I guess you could say it would ease sharpening a bit. But even sharpening is a subjective thing, I believe. I make knives from CPM3V & CPM20CV exclusively! And both are treated to 61hrc. Neither one presents me with any problem of sharpening.(And I’ve only got one arm/hand to use!) I made my own...

If you have been happy with the strength/toughness at your current heat treat than you are not going to gain a noticable increase in performance. That said, you would not LOSE noticable performance in edge retention either. It’s only 1 HRC point in question.

Out a here!

Oh I didn’t think you were angry. And I get what you are saying my friend. It’s the “noisy FEW” that I was directing to. Some simply can’t accept a different opinion, and feel the need to lash out. I only generalize for their small thinking. I try to talk directly only to those who I know won’t...

No, I understood you Chris. And yes, I do remember. I was being light hearted with you, hence the “LOL” and “j/k”:) Really not trying to “rough” feathers. Just being matter of fact. A statement of FACT should, should not be an area of contention. TRUTH doesn’t care about our feelings. My...