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Thank you very much, Ed. I'm in the process of trying to make my five knives now for this summer. Hopefully I will be able to get them ready in time.

Desert Ironwood Hunter 1075 Blade with a radiused spine 416SS and G10 guard and spacer Mortise tang Desert Ironwood handle with Corby bolt pins.

There's another thread going on talking about grinding clips, which is the same thing basically. One thing I didn't mention was I grind my clips parallel to the belt direction, like is shown in Dan Warren's video. I've seen guys grind them perpendicular, but I haven't been successful with that...

I always blue dykem the blade and scribe a center line down the spine. Then I take a pair of caliper's and decide how far I want the false edge to come down the blade and scrip a line on both sides of the bevels. Then I have a visual reference to guide me to get them even. If I don't get them...

I literally just posted this on another thread. This is Dan Warren's method. ABS Master Bladesmith. Pretty good video. I freehand mine, but also do it on a contact wheel similar to the way he is grinding here. Also, if get multiple angles when you are grinding, but you can clean that up...

This is Dan Warren's method. ABS Master Bladesmith. Pretty good video.

I use a 10" contact wheel to do mine, but I'm doing hunters and larger.

Does anyone have any suggestions for African Blackwood suppliers? Wanting to get some in my inventory.

I don't do slipjoints, but in general one other thing that I do is to coat the blade in blue dykem, and scribe a center line along the spine, and use a set of calipers to scribe a guideline on the flats as a reference line. Makes it easier to get your grinds symmetrical.

That's awesome! I will have to try that for sure!

This will be a test for me on that. Another reason why I am going to keep this one and use it as much as possible to see what happens.

I did with some help. My first billet. I don't have a forge press or power hammer. I visited a fellow knifemaker who helped me make this first billet. I brought it home and made this with the first bit of it. I was getting frustrated with the coffee etch to begin with, because it doesn't...

This is my first attempt at Damascus and gunkote. I think I really like the gunkote. I need to play with the spraying levels a bit more.

Sounds like we are on the same page on this. I've become a big fan of it. Sorry guys. I did not mean to hijack this thread about Tru-oil.

I just mean I don't want my handles to look like they have a thick layer of polyurethane on them. I like the look of natural wood, so I don't want to add too much to that. Just my personal preference, though.

No, no. Didn't think that. The article, however, was what I was referring to. It seemed a little dismissive of using Teak Oil. I'm not trying to make my handles look like furniture, though.

Can't argue with that. However, I also can't argue with the results I get with it. I use Watco's.

Depends. You get different looks with different treatments. I have soaked handles for up to an hour in heated teak oil to let the oil fully saturate the handle, but this also really darkens the wood. After, I let it dry, and I may put on a couple of more coats to really seal the top surface...

I've started using Teak oil on most of my knives. It is designed for oily woods, and will even absorb into desert ironwood and african blackwood. It seals both stabilized woods and oily woods well. Not as shiny as Tru-oil, but I'm moving away from the really shiny look.

Send it off to a professional heat treater. For one knife I would use Paul Bos Heat Treat.