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When I buy another anvil, it will be this one. The price is right, and you can do a ton of work on it. Plus, it is super easy to secure to a BA Stump. I almost pulled the trigger on it at the beginning of last year but my stupid heater broke and I had to pay for that...

That is a pretty dog on good for a first attempt with no official slip joint training. I would consider that a huge success. If it follows the path mine did, the spring tension will lessen as you use it, so it may still end up where you want it. Good job. I went back and looked at your...

Yes. I have made a few of both with similar problems

No, I miss the guy from New Zealand too. His name escapes me at the moment, though.

Mostly the locks did not hold up. In the beginning, the thing would lock up solid, then after a few months, less and less. I am sure it has to do with the parts not being precise enough. Or maybe even the "spring" since I did not have a HT oven at the time everything was done old school. I...

That is still pretty cool...

My hat is off to you sir. I have tried about three or four slippys but I have never gotten one to hold up over time. I hope you do...

If I can offer an unsolicited opinion, I think you started with steel that was too thin so you cannot get the fuller deep enough to survive the flat grinding on the fuller side. You have a convex shape on the non-fuller side, so you are doing it right. With a little thicker steel I think you...

Waiting on @Gene Kimmi to post about his set up. It is awesome...

That is part of my curiosity, too. From a forging standpoint, it is not a difficult piece of work. When you forge in the deep fuller, the opposite side will naturally take the shape shown here because as you push the steel toward the other side, things start to stretch, and the opposite side...

I literally have a friend who is from Ukraine and speaks Russian. I will try to get some translations here. The picture finally made me understand the approximate geometry.

Or this...

Starting at 8:13 this guy explains the reasons behind the knife's design. The entire video is good (wish we had birch bark in the south) too.

Thanks for posting this @soundmind It reminds me of why I started blacksmithing all those years ago. I will have to make one of these shortly. I really like traditional knives like Ulus and Puukkos. I have made an ulu or two and several Puukkos so I will study up on the Yakut and make some...

I will more than likely have the minority opinion here, but I would just make it a framed handle and call it a day.

Years ago, John Wilson turned me onto AEB-L, and it is currently my go-to for stainless. I would read this article on Knife Steel Nerds and it will tell you more than you want to know about AEB-L. I base my HT for AEBL on this article and I have never been disappointed...

Your logic makes sense but CPM 3V will fully harden in still air. No plates, oil, or blown air are needed. Again, no judgment, just trying to save you unnecessary steps. The good thing about working in your own shop is you can do it your way...

I am wondering why one would use oil instead of an air or plate quench for these steels? Just curious, not judging.

THAT is funny right there. I am stealing that. I have thought about trying a jig a few times, normally when I am aggravated with one of my freehand grinds. I have never pulled the trigger on one because I am not sure it will mesh with my grinding method. I will be following this to see what...

I have held a similar class a few times. The way I get it done is as follows. For the first 15 minutes, I used Play-Doh to explain the basic blacksmith techniques like drawing and fullering. Then we begin forging. I use a "Monkey see, Monkey do" approach where I forge on my knife first, and...