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I use mild steel and consider it consumable, as I also get deformation from the heat.

Nice! I believe as a beginner/intermediate maker you can get by without one as long as you do plenty of testing with your knives. As you advance, a hardness tester is a must to really fine tune your heat treatment. Since getting mine, I have tested every knife. It is nice knowing your heat...

I have used Axe wax and a couple different car paste waxes. I know Ed and others use vaseline. To me, the car paste waxes are the easiest to remove.

Sean, Here's my process for gluing up the scales on a knife. I assemble the scales to the blade with pins or corbys, then spread wax anywhere that epoxy will squeeze out. Next, remove the scales from the blade. I will use some denatured alcohol to clean any wax that has seeped under the...

Thanks everyone. Yes, that is museum fit. Sometimes called heirloom fit. I’ve tried etching the tang after sanding the scales flush, but never could get results that I liked. I went to fitting the scales this way and really like how they turn out.

Here is one I recently finished for my grandson's 1st birthday. 60 layer twist pattern with mammoth tusk scales and red G-10 liners that are museum fit to the blade. I need to finish a few steps on the mammoth tusk stand and get it glued up, but I think it's turning out pretty good.

I've done it both ways, but probably prefer waiting 10 - 12 hours for a harder set.

I've been using the wax method for a few years now. It definitely makes for easier clean up.

I use talc powder in the pouch of every stainless blade I heat treat now. I learned my lesson after welding the pouch to a couple 8" Magnacut chef's knives. Still haven't cleaned those blades up yet.

I'm pretty sure in Larrin's articles or videos, he has said the lower preheat and equalizing is not necessary for knife thickness steels. I run my MagnaCut at 2075 for 20 minutes, plate quench, liquid nitrogen for 30 - 60 minutes, then a 300 temper for 2 hours X 2. I get 62.5 - 63 rockwell.

I used a 120 grit ceramic belt to radius the edges.

I just replaced my glass platen. On the old one I had about an 1/8" radius on the edges of the glass. That worked fine on 1/8" or thinner blades for plunges. On thicker blades, it was almost too much of a radius, so on my new glass I just barely put a radius on the edges. Maybe 1/16" or smaller.

This! I have this one and one from another company. I could never get the other one to work right. The DD workrest works great!

When i do cryo, I twist a loop in some wire, usually just pull some from my mig welder. I put the loop over the point of the blades, I usually bundle several together, then wrap the wire around the blades several times and run the wire through a hole in the handle of the blades. I put the...

I always sharpen on the slack belt between the idler wheel and the top wheel on the platen. The grinder is run in reverse. I’ve done a few recurves that way with no problems.

Red liners with desert ironwood or koa is always a good choice!

Well, add another to the list of buyers. Mine arrived today. Now to get it set up and figured out.

2 sources I know of, Mark Knapp custom knives, I just bought a set from him. Also, the guys at stag depot had some a while back.

Thank you! Both sold quickly for $450 each.

Here’s a couple I recently finished. It’s a new model I’m calling the Gambler. The blades are 75 layer twist damascus. Ivory G-10 scales with red liners and pins that are heirloom fit to the blades. 6 1/2” overall length. They fit in a horizontal carry sheath with a retaining strap.