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Or burn it! Those things can bite for a loooong time after they are dead!

Finished this 8” santoku today in Magnacut. G-Carta handles. .140 thick stock, “S” grind, with distal tapered blade and tapered tang. Tang is tapered to .010,which gives it a nice sleek look, and all the tapering and hollow grinding left it light as a feather too!

Looks pretty nice. I’ve not ever heard of anyone having much luck selling knives at a craft fair, I wouldn’t be too disheartened by that.

Getting this one kind of close. “Ronin’s Ghost”. .140 thick Magnacut, distal taper, tapered tang. The tang is .007 thick at the thin end. Going to be getting some carbon fiber scales with gold anodized fileworked titanium liners and some gold anodized titanium Torx screws. It’s turning out good...

Taking a break is ok. I got tired of hearing things cost too much too, so I roughly tripled my prices, and quit taking orders. Now I make what I want to make, and sell them for what I want. Now that I’ve made them MORE expensive, there hasn’t been a peep about it. You could always try that...

I’ve never thought of that, but it looks like a pretty good idea.

CPM154 for that one

Sort of similar.

Yeah I have a page on there, and on Instagram. Thanks!

That picture IS the warning. : ) I reckon we all have a scar or too that was “earned” in the same way. Most of mine come from doing dumb stuff.

You say “sales are really slow”. I’ve been making knives since about ‘90 or ‘91 or so, I don’t really remember. Just been the last few years that I’ve been able to sell them faster than I can make them. It takes some time, so I wouldnt get discouraged by that. Nice looking knives, thanks for the...

I was working on this ulu. Getting close to handle time. Had to change my bandsaw blade, and wouldn’t you know it, the first thing I cut was my thumb. Sucker cuts good now!

I’d like to see what you are doing with it too. Been contemplating getting the same one.

There’s some good news for the day! Hope this pans out.

Just thinking about the whole “stabilizing leather” thing and wet molding, I bet if you have a vac chamber, you could soak a sheath in water in one of them quite well in a matter of seconds.

It probably does. This was on a half-tan puukko sheath. I finished it with warm beeswax, seemed to work well. I’m going to try stabilizing some stingray leather for inlays later this spring and I was going to rinse it in acetone before stabilizing just for the purposes of taking out the oils.

Get a big ol 500 gallon (or is it pounds?) tank, like you use to heat your house. They delivered one and set it up for $200. Never have to carry anything around then!

I used acetone to soak the last molded sheath I made. Soaks faster, about an hour, and it dries really quick too. Couple hours and it’s dry.

I just started using it, it seems a lot like CPM154 for grinding. Haven’t tried grinding it hardened yet. I do a little bit of a bevel before HT, probably about .075 or so.

Your best results will be out of the oven vs the forge so that’s good you are not using a forge. Both 15N20 and 5160 have very similar heat treat procedures, and should respond well to 1475 for 7 minutes then into AAA. Should come out right around 63HRC. I prefer a 350 temper, 2x 2hrs, for about...