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You might mention what part of the world you're located in for these forsale items. Your profile is a good place to put your location.

That's what I was wondering, if it's the same material as the Scotchbrite belts

That is something that would be easy to 3D print, "IF" a person had the file. Having to draw the holder up in 3D CAD is another project. Maybe somebody has the files?

Plastigage is wonderful stuff

Now I understand, I was thinking you were planning to purge the whole oven. You're talking about filling the pouch with argon gas.

This is a very interesting thread - and I'll be following. Would it be possible to have bronze bearings made to replace the babbit bearings?

Pine is what I was thinking it looked like - heart pine is long lived! No bugs, no rot - almost forever.

Nice - any idea what wood those tobacco sticks are? Sorta looks like it's got a brownish stain from all the years of hanging tobacco leaves.

That is impressive!

Same here Paul, I use reverse a good bit of the time, especially for sharpening. If the tracking is really dialed in it should run ok in reverse. My grinder isn't perfect, the belt will move perhaps 1/4" when moving from forward to reverse.

What part did you order to make the KMG run in reverse? I guess you could do a twist on the belts to a figure 8 to make the grinder run in reverse but that sure seems like a lot of trouble. The normal way is to replace the 1 ph motor with a 3 ph using a VFD. This normally will require 220 vdc.

Isn't this the same laser? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YY8F6ZJ A tad cheaper and has the roller accessory included. I find the roller works better if the bottle to be engraved is filled with water to help prevent slipping on the rollers. I've got the OLM 3 and the specs of the above laser...

Opaul, as Wallace asked, what jig did you get? Wallace, which are your favorite jigs? I've used a few different jigs. The Moen jig is one I like (made one of his old style jigs and it works pretty good). I REALLY admire folks who freehand grind - that's a real talent.

Check your msgs, my email is sailingtoo at gmail dot com

Be sure you post photos of them when finished - we LOVE to see knife photos:) where you tested the core, was it parallel sides? Remember when there's an angle the Rc isn't as accurate as it could be. Testing the core has always been an issue with me in San Mai billets. Larrin said if you...

Chris, I remember when you first posted the question and planned to follow the responses, but it seems to have fallen by the wayside. A question, the billet you mentioned, what is the cladding metal? The core metal is what's of concern when HT'ing. Larrin responded that the cladding (with...

Those look good - keep making 'n posting. This is a great bunch of folks who are really good at sharing knowledge. I've learned a lot here.

I never thought about using the phone - I like a "real" computer, as in my desktop when at all possible. I understand lots of folks these days use their phone and don't even have a desktop computer, or notebook.

On this great KnifeDogs forum you can post directly from your computer. Let me check and make sure that's still a valid statement. If so, you'll need to leave the photo with same name in same location on your computer so the link won't be broken. This is a slipjoint under construction with a...

I'm not totally sure if that had black paint or not. It's really hard to tell the difference in a photo. The black paint etch "seems" to be a tad "blacker" than the non-paint etch. The non- paint etch is still "black" but perhaps not as deep a black? I've had a couple of folks look at the...