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As mentioned, rust can be an issue. Something in Windex, maybe the ammonia, seems to help in that regard. Obviously, WD40 or cutting fluid will reduce the chance of rust to about zero. One reason to not use oily stuff would be the cleanup, especially if you need totally squeaky clean for say...

The crushed W all stretched out sideways like that has interested me for a while. I think that I saw someone refer to it as "seaweed pattern."

Windex worka, WD40 works. Cool Tool may work better.

Now the one way that you can succeed beyond your wildest dreams is to obtain fanboy followers. We have heard the term "Instagram knifemaker" but you havee that kind of thing even in the more traditional marketplace. Anyone remember what Turley knives were selling for on the bushcraft secondary...

It's a $500 plus knife that 90% of knifemakers can't get anyone to pay $500 plus for. That $375 knife from 1992 which was the cheapest on the makers table, should sell for $750 today IF knife prices had kept up with basic inflation. Not happening.

The custom knife " industry" is a victim of tis own success. A premium product is no longer premium if makers have to give their stuff away.

Example of supply vs demand. This is a picture from the website of the guy who bought this knife from me. I bought it from Joe Flournoy at the 1991 or 1992 Guild Show in Orlando. I paid $375. He had just gotten his MS stamp that summer, but this was unstamped. Didn't even have the JS stamp IIRC...

8 billion people in the world so there are significantly more than just a FEW bad apples. :D

You always have to do a lot of hand sanding. :D I do those multiple grinds when doing an S grind. Shallow flat, deeper flat, shallow hollow. convex then blend it all together by hand until bone is showing.I will say that with the S grind, I am even more firm in my belief that if you don't have...

Sean, I had the opportunity to talk with Bill Moran a couple of times in 2005 right before he passed including a nice talk at the Little Washington Hammer In where I showed him an early attempt as a rough ground blade in his style. He was very kind in critiquing it and said that I got slightly...

I am old and crotchety, but I took the advice of Dr. Jim Lucie at the 2007 pr 2008 Batson's hammer in IIRC and bought one of those 3M rubber sanding blocks for hand sanding. Remember also that if you have trouble hand sanding that convex grind, it may be TOO convex. Many that I have seen over...

MAJOR bullet dodged. As bad as the destruction is south of us, it would have been considerably worse or at least more widespread if that storm had come up into Tampa bay.

Interesting, but I am still not sure I would want a non hardenable metal in my blade, especially that close to the edge. But, to be fair, I feel the same way about wrought iron, low carbon steel and pure nickel. Not singling out copper.

Always a good combination.

I tend to do curved clips and use a convex platen for the whole operation. 18 inch radius for smaller knives and 36 inch radius for big ones. Get the curve of the clip right and then rotate the blade to grind the swedge lengthwise/ you coulds do the same on a flat platen if you wanted a...

I usually do the swedge first and then bring the edge up to meet it at the tip.

In the future, I would avoid pure nickel at the edge. 300 layers is where you really start seing the "chatoyance" with ladder pattern in my experience. Anything under 180 doesn't look all that great IMO. I know that a lot of people are gong for "bold" patterns these days, but to my eye a bold...

As long as it fits.

The bad news is that you typically need to either rent a wet saw or find a buddy who has one so that you can chop those shelving tiles up into bite size pieces. But it is still cheaper than buying a new "floor" from Chile even though their stuff is thicker and more durable. Any tiel that you get...

Or you just go to your local pottery store and buy a piece of kiln shelf tile and use it as a "sacrificial floor.