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Looks great Bob!! Nice design and well executed keep the pics coming as you make more!

Wow that is beautiful work my friend! It's hard to figure out something unique these days but that sir is certainly unique... And the rest of the blade work is incredible as well. Nice job!

Beautiful work, how's it progressing?

Thanks guys!

Finally got to use some nice desert ironwood I've had for a few months! This is one of my knife models called the Ember (3.5" blade length)

This. I agree it sucks but It's their knife now and they can mod how they wish. Anyone who knows your work knows that's not how you do things and it's easily provable that it's not what originally shipped on the knife.

It's fully automated, most likely on berger grinders

Flat at much easier for me as there are less things going on... Hollow is very difficult to be done the way I personally like it - with very clean grind lines, no rounding near the transition to the flat (ie you can't use cork belts or gator trizacts), a consistent edge thickness from heel to...

If you grind deep (like you would on bevels) I don't think it will keep them straight... You want some residual peening to remain just below the surface on the flats.

Yeah it will leave some dents that need to be ground out but they aren't very deep maybe a couple thousandths (at least with the hammer I use). Yeah I understand the concern on grinding more... I normally leave mine about .010" oversized so .005" would be cutting it pretty close. But I would...

How much over the final thickness are they right now? You need a carbide peening hammer... (I use the 8oz one) You tap on the concave side to spread the metal out and it will straighten the blade, then you just grind off the surface dents from it and the blade stays straight. An SGA is great...

Congrats on getting back up and running! Which mask and set up did you end up getting?

I lined a kydex sheath with leather using CA glue and it's holding up amazing, no peeling whatsoever. But personally for connecting kydex to kydex I prefer rivets since you can drill them out and remove to clean down the road

I would probably sandblast, degrease, epoxy (gflex or blade pro ) and clamp. You could try CA glue as well on a couple scrap pieces and see if it has enough holding power for you

Sunray will make you one out of polyurethane for a great price... Shoot they may even strip and refinish that for even cheaper. Just specify that you want minimum runout on the concentricity of the wheel.

The SGA is excellent for some things... I don't like it for finish grinding the flats though. If you already have a grind in the blade or skeletonize your tang then the belt will remove more material where the is less metal contact with the belt and you will get some slight dips there. Nothing...

3x12" iirc It runs great! I can get a decent finish right off of the wheel within a couple of thoun(so I use it for hogging/getting close) then I take to my real surface grinder to finish up!

It's a huge pain... Every time you flip a knife you have to get the chuck super clean. I was fortunate enough to get an on/off chuck from Northridge tool that I mounted to my reeder and it works super well

That's awesome man! I'm surprised they did it with a moq of 120 pieces, everywhere I've talked to us AT LEAST 200 They look incredible by the way, great job!!!

That dude at the power hammer has some SKILLS wow!