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With care... The main thing is to be careful when putting in a tool rest table. Banging this against the glass will cause it to crack. It can still work though, mine has had a crack for about 2 years now, but the JB Weld is still holding it tight.

Wow! I've forgotten to reset the depth on mine before, grinding extra deep for ~1/2"... but never had the belt pull the blade/chuck out of my hands though. That would have made me soil my pants...

Good luck! Make sure to share pics.

Why not? Isn't cheese worthy??? What about this version: Not mine, btw.

Exactly, I think I drilled them out a bit though.

Good evening, mpcoppin. Hopefully smarter folks will chime in with more detailed explanations, especially regarding specific alloys, but in general: Yes, depending on your timing. Depending on the steel there is a period of time after cooling below the critical temp, where the steel is still...

All those other guys have no idea what they're talking about. Tell you what, I'll take those off your hands and be sure to recycle them in an environmental way so you don't have to worry about this in the future.;) (worth a shot, eh?:rolleyes:)

I use artists charcoal (for black) or other colored pencils/chalk if needed, making dust with120grit sandpaper. Sometimes I'll also use the sanding dust from the handle material to color the epoxy.

Perhaps.... but wouldn't this be true only when the strength of the cured epoxy is greater than the strength of the scale? Everything is only as strong as it's weakest part. I want to say that I read somewhere that one of the main reasons these 'bridges' aren't as strong as we'd like to...

I've heard folks warn against quenching a blade with low grit grinding scratches, citing cracks, but I've never had this happen. The reason I go to higher grits pre-HT is because I reason that it's easier to sand/grind a softer steel than a harder one. FYI, lightening the tang and making fit...

No too both. Well, maybe I should say maybe for the first one, depending on whether or not you like the look of a blade with a patina. Burt if you plan on continuing to make knives, you'd do just as well saving the 1095 for another project and make this out of mild steel.

I have never liked MIG welding, but this might be because I've not done much. I recently got a TIG unit and really like it. I'll agree with @tkroenlein about ease of viewing. There's no flash or sparks to deal with, and because there's no weld splatter, I don't think I'll be going through new...

You can protect the scales with nail polish.

Where/when did you get the steel? Following up on Mr Doyle's comment, there was a discussion about a year ago on another knife-maker forum about one of the major suppliers having a bad batch of 1095...I can't remember which one, however.

I've got this one too, but I have to say, it's a bit small for larger chef's knives. I've had a few nakiris that won't fit. IIRc it's made out of 2" square tube, so that's the limit on max blade height.

Not too long, now that you have the press to play with. I'll bet you start working on those patterns in the next couple months.

A tip I learned on another forum is to purchase a 10-pack, cut them into thirds and then grind both ends. Now you have 60 electrodes to go through before having to grind them again.

For me, I'd say it is. But that might be because I'm used to the flux flashing most likely because of moisture from living in the PNW. I'm a new TIG user, so no expert. One of the nice things about this method of welding is that you can tack up damascus billets without adding any filler...

True, but some folks can't even swing a 1 1/2# hammer....