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How wide, how long?

So you would need to find a maker who draws out their billets to your final thickness without using a rolling mill.

That depends on how much forging is done after the steels are welded, as well as the size of the drawing dies, the way the bar is drawn out, etc... How big of a billet are you looking for?

You said you want perfect finishes, and it's been said that it takes 10,000 hours to master something.

Not if I make up the billet while the forge is getting up to heat, but most of the time, yes.

Many of us have a can of kerosene for this very reason. I'll often prep a number of billets at one time, cleaning and tacking them, and storing them in kerosene until I get a good forging day now that we're in the rainy season here in the PNW.

Suggestion: Now that you're 5 knives into your journey, you should know enough to know if this is something you're going to continue. If so, then go ahead and get the Parks 50 now. It doesn't go bad, it's probably not going to get any cheaper and it might even take a while to get delivered...

One thing I should add about using the shop vac. The filters have to be clean for this to be effective. I put a clean filter on, and then vacuum out the used filter to clean it and repeat many times before having to buy a new filter, saving on filter costs.

If you use a flat platen like I do, what I do is have a shop vac with the narrow nozzle directed right up the platen about 1/2" from the bottom wheel and I've ground handles without my respirator and don't smell anything, so I know it gets most of it. PS - I do use a respirator for all...

I've used them a few times (in general blacksmithing projects, not knife making) and they are great for spot heating. I watched a friend heat the middle of a ~6" piece of 1" round to a yellow/white heat and then twisted to break the bar by hand, it took about 20-30 seconds and he was holding...

any chance on getting a video of it in use?

Perhaps you could post a link so folks don't have to go through the search process?

Out of curiosity, Gene, do you know if ATP-641 anti-scale treatment helps with this?

I'll suggest checking out Knife Steel Nerds. Larrin just did an article that addresses this very question (I think he used 80CRV2) https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/09/23/how-to-heat-treat-knife-steel-in-a-forge/

well, what is the definition of "experience"? So when does knowledge without practical application of said knowledge start to be considered experience? Yes, basically, the hamon line is the demarcation between hard and soft steel. In my experience, there are 2 ways of achieving this...

If that's all you think you're getting, then I guess that's too bad for you. Sorry for trying to help you out.

Thoughts??? OK, but be careful what you ask for ;) . I'm not sure this is 100% correct. It's my understanding that the hamon line is showing where the steel transitions from martensite (hard steel) to pearlite (non-hardened steel). This happens primarily through the HT process, not the forging...

... and when I learn that I still haven't learned :(...

You might want to check out the 5160 Club if you're anywhere near the Eugene area, then.

Welcome. Love the serpent! Thanks for sharing.