Questions

Kevin Zito

Kevin Zito

KNIFE MAKER
Hey all. I have been bustin' it in the shop. I have a batch of 6 or so that I'm waiting to get back from HT. It's amazing how things continually get crisper, flatter, cleaner, and hence, sharper... lol. I'm struggling a bit with photography, and getting super angry with it lol, but I'll definitely post pics of the completed group soon. Anyway, I have a few questions and I know y'all got answers so here goes.

1) Files: Who makes the best files? What types (size, cut pattern & shape do you consider to be must-haves?

2) Belts (4 by 36): Is there a high quality belt in the normal (50-400) grit sizes for a 4 by 36? Where can I get them? I'm grinding SS, high carbon, type steel and wood. Where are you guys getting your sand paper also? I'm getting a 2 by 72 as soon as my shop is done, but for now I'm stuck with the HF 4 by 36.

3) Maker's Mark: If I have a PDF of my maker's mark, can I have stencils made? Who makes the stencils?

4) Epoxy: Where do I buy acraglass? I'm assuming Brownell's, but do I buy a certain kind?

5) Respirator's: I want the best. Any recommendations?

6) Finishing Wood: The first step is admitting you have a problem. Okay, I have a problem. I take a piece of natural wood, say, DIW. I shape it, then sand it from 60 to 1200 grit. Am I supposed to do something else, lol? I know the process is drastically different for different woods. Of course I research it, but there are too many opinions. Is there a definitive guide/resource that you all use? I do basically the exact same procedure as above for every wood which I know is wrong. Chemicals must be added to the procedure sometimes, right?

I'm certain that much, if not all, of the information I seek can be found in many places, but I trust you guys, and I honestly don't feel like sorting through tons of garbage to hopefully trust the right one. Thanks!
 
I like Nicholson, also bought a set of Home Depot Needle Files that have a life time Warranty on them nice little handle and case came with them (Ed said he's had decent luck with their files in general and they stand behind the warranty)?? I bought my 2X72 belts from Super Grit they have all sizes pricing was decent and quick shipping. I read a post on here about stencils from a guy named Ernie Grospitch (I have no experience with this yet) there had to have been 20 endorsements for the man! Brownells sells it and if I remember USA Knife Makers had it on their site also, Respirator not sure I want to get a full face next one I get so I will be interested to hear what others have to say on this, Wood I'm a total loss on. Hope I helped some!
 
Kevin what I do with all my wood scales, after it has been sanded to satisfaction I will give it a coat of thinned marine varnish (30 % turps to thin) sand with 800-1000 grt and recoat, sand again which seals the wood and then finish with multiple very thin rubbings of BLO.
Others may differ, but this is what I have been doing after finding this 'recipe' while doing the same thing to the rifle stocks I have been making for many years.
 
John Wilson said:
Respirator: 3M 7500 series. Silicone is absolutely the way to go for fit and comfort.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Respirato...785&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3m+respirator&psc=1

P100 particulate filters (pancake filters.. they fit under a faceshield)
https://www.amazon.com/3M-2097-Part...1504268871&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+respirator+p100

Bionic Face Shield
https://www.amazon.com/Bionic-Shiel...1504268963&sr=1-2&keywords=bionic+face+shield
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John will that respirator fit under that shield?
 
I'll throw my thoughts out there, in hopes they might be helpful...

1) Files: Who makes the best files? What types (size, cut pattern & shape do you consider to be must-haves?
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The quality of files has suffered drastically over last couple of decades due to spec manufacturing. I'm not sure there are ANY still available that are not case hardened (meaning they are made from the cheapest, non-hardenable material, with the surface being case hardened.... a very thin hard "skin")
For many years the only files I would purchase were Nicholson, but even they have turned to case hardened files, lowering the quality, and increasing the price..... which is why I started using the Husky files from home depot with the "Guaranteed for Life" imprint on the packaging. It was beat to death on another thread, but I initially purchased 2 sets of these files, and currently am on sets 11 & 12 by returning/replacing them under warranty.

2) Belts (4 by 36): Is there a high quality belt in the normal (50-400) grit sizes for a 4 by 36? Where can I get them? I'm grinding SS, high carbon, type steel and wood. Where are you guys getting your sand paper also? I'm getting a 2 by 72 as soon as my shop is done, but for now I'm stuck with the HF 4 by 36
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.

This is a difficult one. 4x36 machines are designed/built for woodworking, and therefore it's nearly impossible to find belts designed to cut anything other then wood. The only recommendation I could offer is to CALL the folks at Tru-Grit Abrasives, and ask them if they have, or can get 4x36 belts for use on steel. I suspect if they can be had, they will be shockingly expensive compared to what you're using.

4) Epoxy: Where do I buy acraglass? I'm assuming Brownell's, but do I buy a certain kind?
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Brownells is the only outlet for acraglas. If you find it somewhere else, they are buying it from Brownells and reselling it... generally marking it up in the process. Acraglas comes in several different varieties.... personally I use the "original" and buy it in the "shop kit" size..... 28oz of resin & 7oz of hardener. When you see the price it might shock you, but keep in mind the cost of other epoxies and the amount you get, and the shop kit is actually cheaper. Usually that shop kit is enough for the number of knives I produce in a year's time. Probably the most intimidating thing with Acraglas for a person who's used to using standard epoxies, is the mix ratio. Rather then the standard 50/50 mix, Acraglas is mixed in a 4 to 1 ratio (4 parts hardener to 1 part hardener). NOTE: YOU HAVE TO STAY VERY CLOSE TO THE 4 TO 1 RATIO WITH ACRAGLAS....IF YOU USE TOO MUCH HARDENER, IT WILL CURE TO THE CONSISTENCY OF OLD JELL-O, AND NEVER GET ANY HARDER. To that end, when you start out, I recommend using the graduated mixing cups that Brownells sells. I used the graduated mixing cups for about a year or so.... but you will soon learn the "signs" that you're at the proper mix, and the cups will not longer be necessary.

5) Respirator's: I want the best. Any recommendations?
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I agree with John on the 3M-7500 series. After my first lung surgery, I had a lot of recovery time to research/study respirators..... and it's the one I now choose to use.
These masks are number in the following way: 7501= small, 7502= medium, 7503= Large

6) Finishing Wood: The first step is admitting you have a problem. Okay, I have a problem. I take a piece of natural wood, say, DIW. I shape it, then sand it from 60 to 1200 grit. Am I supposed to do something else, lol? I know the process is drastically different for different woods. Of course I research it, but there are too many opinions. Is there a definitive guide/resource that you all use? I do basically the exact same procedure as above for every wood which I know is wrong. Chemicals must be added to the procedure sometimes, right?
Click to expand...

This is one area where it just blows my mind at the number of "arm chair" experts throwing out advice on the internet. As you said, different TYPES of woods require different finishing techniques. Much of how a given wood is finished should be dictated by the end use..... in other words, if you're reading finishing advice for cabinets and furniture, that method is very likely not a good choice for knife handles. When researching wood finishing, if it's not coming from a knifemaker, I'd say you can "move on".:)
For those woods that require some type of sealer or finish, I tend to use Tru-Oil. It can be a lengthy process when done correctly, but I favor longevity and endurance in a finish rather than how quickly I can get it applied/done. When it comes to exotic woods, I only use a handful of varieties.... my favorite is African Blackwood, along with Desert Ironwood, and those are finely finished, the a good coat of Caranuba wax. Stabilized materials have been a great thing for the knifemaker, provided you understand that it's not an all inclusive solution. ANY natural material will "move" whether it's stabilized or not. Stabilizing on MINIMIZES the materials natural "movement" which occurs with changes in temp and humidity. When I use stabilized handle material, it's very common for me to finish it out, then apply one or more coats of Tru-Oil, based on the characteristics of the given material. I doubt you will find anything that will give you definitive answers for every variety of wood. It's really all about time and experience.

I can't speak for anyone other then myself, but this whole knifemaking adventure is an evolutionary thing. Meaning that you try something, and if it doesn't work, you try something else, until you find what works best for YOU. Probably the most important thing that I have learned over the years is to select/use methods, and/or products that give you the best long term durability, versus being the easiest, cheapest, or quickest. Nothing frustrates me more then having a knife returned if something doesn't "hold up" as expected. (speaking mainly of "glue" and handle material/finishes).
 
Gliden07 said:
John will that respirator fit under that shield?
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Yes it does. That list is exactly what I wear when I grind. Well, I also wear a ballcap turned around backwards. I find the faceshield a lot more comfortable when it has a hat to hang on instead of cranking the strap down on my head. That, and the hat keeps metal dust out of my hair.
 
John Wilson said:
Yes it does. That list is exactly what I wear when I grind. Well, I also wear a ballcap turned around backwards. I find the faceshield a lot more comfortable when it has a hat to hang on instead of cranking the strap down on my head. That, and the hat keeps metal dust out of my hair.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir!!
 
Kevin Zito said:
Hey all. I have been bustin' it in the shop. I have a batch of 6 or so that I'm waiting to get back from HT. It's amazing how things continually get crisper, flatter, cleaner, and hence, sharper... lol. I'm struggling a bit with photography, and getting super angry with it lol, but I'll definitely post pics of the completed group soon. Anyway, I have a few questions and I know y'all got answers so here goes.

1) Files: Who makes the best files? What types (size, cut pattern & shape do you consider to be must-haves? I like a bastard mill file in the 10" to 14" range. mexican nicholsons are ok, Bahco are a little better

2) Belts (4 by 36): Is there a high quality belt in the normal (50-400) grit sizes for a 4 by 36? Where can I get them? I'm grinding SS, high carbon, type steel and wood. Where are you guys getting your sand paper also? I'm getting a 2 by 72 as soon as my shop is done, but for now I'm stuck with the HF 4 by 36. yes, for 60 to 120 grit I like Norton Bluefire zirc belts. find them on ebay or Tru-grit. You will find mostly AO, zirc and silicon carbide in 4x36.

3) Maker's Mark: If I have a PDF of my maker's mark, can I have stencils made? Who makes the stencils?

4) Epoxy: Where do I buy acraglass? I'm assuming Brownell's, but do I buy a certain kind? why acraglass?? buy some 20 minute work time epoxy from Devcon or JB or Gorilla or Loc-tite or 3m/Scotch

5) Respirator's: I want the best. Any recommendations? for most knife making operations, a basic disposable from hardware store will work. If you need "THE BEST" go to local industrial safety store and talk to them. If they do not do a fit test, leave quickly. commercial respirators come in several sizes and must be fit tested for best performance. they cannot do a fit test if you have a beard. the safety store can also tell you which filters to buy for which jobs.

6) Finishing Wood: The first step is admitting you have a problem. Okay, I have a problem. I take a piece of natural wood, say, DIW. I shape it, then sand it from 60 to 1200 grit. Am I supposed to do something else, lol? I know the process is drastically different for different woods. Of course I research it, but there are too many opinions. Is there a definitive guide/resource that you all use? I do basically the exact same procedure as above for every wood which I know is wrong. Chemicals must be added to the procedure sometimes, right? it is a piece of wood in a high use situation. treat it like you would wood floor or table top. sand to 120 or so, finish using polyurethane or a finishing oil (folks seem to love Tru Oil with is a blend of oils and poly) dry, sand with 180. coat of finish. dry. sand with 240. coat of finish. you get the picture. good reference document for wood finishes with ratings http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com...-and-abrasives/penetrative/oil-finishes-pt-1/

I'm certain that much, if not all, of the information I seek can be found in many places, but I trust you guys, and I honestly don't feel like sorting through tons of garbage to hopefully trust the right one. Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
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