Source for 2" Contact wheel (and do I need one?) + other NWG questions

leozinho

Member
Short version - who has a 2" poly contact wheel in stock? Boss Dog has a good price ($46.86) but is out of stock.

Long version -
I bought the plans for the NWG and metal last week. I'm trying to source the rest of my parts. I'm trying to keep costs down as I'm still only a would-be hobbyist (I've ground just a couple on my Craftsman 2 x 42, but it was enough to know that it's fun and I would want a 2x72. Haven't even heat treated and finished anything yet.)

I'm planning on using a "swivel" platen with a 8" contact wheel on the bottom (most likely will purchase the "multi-platen" from Jamie at Polarbearforge.com unless you guys advise against it.)

Now for my current questions –

Who has the 2" poly contact wheel in stock?

Do I even need a 2" contact wheel? Seems to be too big for finger grooves, but too small for grinding blades. Is 3" more useful, or just go with non-contact 2" idler wheel at top of mult-platen.

Any problem using the Polar Bear Forge multi-platen with the NWG? Will it be too heavy, perhaps?

Has anyone tried Chris of Wilmont Grinder's Economy PVC tracking wheel? If he says it's good to go, I'm inclined to believe him but I thought I'd ask.

http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/BeltGrinderWheels.aspx

Many thanks. Without the information on this forum I probably wouldn't have taken the plunge.
 
Chris's wheels are good.
They will work fine in the NWG build.
t
 
btw, sorry for the out. We've really been getting slammed on grinder parts. Those wheels are on order and should be back in stock in a couple weeks.
 
Do I even need a 2" contact wheel? Seems to be too big for finger grooves, but too small for grinding blades. Is 3" more useful, or just go with non-contact 2" idler wheel at top of mult-platen.



Many thanks. Without the information on this forum I probably wouldn't have taken the plunge.

I have a 2" on the top and a 5" on the bottom of the Platen on my Hardcore Products grinder.
I have used the 2" for grinding fullers on the top of my knives and quick little fix it's while sharpening.
The reason for having a 2" and not a smaller one on top as a constant wheel is that the littler guys spin so fast that you would toast the bearings at a fast rate.

You may do fine with a 3"? If you have one already or know where to get?

ww.trugrit.com "Call them" May have a 2" in stock? Don't know the price? But I know the quality, I have gotten over 15 years of almost daily use out of the 2" they sell so that's what I will buy again. Ask whoever you buy from, ask where the bearing are made? USA Good, Japan Good, china ??? maybe not so good?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I built my NWG (I welded it) and haven't looked back. I think that the 3 inch would be fine since I never use the 2 inch. Definitely use a contact wheel though as I think it helps stabilize the tracking. Definitely buy the adapter for the swappable 3/4, 1 and 1 1/2 wheels for different fine work. You will never look back.
 
My build is coming along slowly but surely. I have almost everything drilled and tapped. One trick I used was to drill the non-precision holes first. I learned a bit as I went and my measuring and drilling become more accurate after I got a few under my belt. And I started squaring my cuts with my disk grinder. My HF drill press has a lot runnout, but nothing that the liberal use of a center punch hasn't been able to overcome (I probably need to pull the chuck and reinstall.)

I found a motor at Tractor Supply (1.5hp, TEFC, farm duty, 1725 rpm) on sale for $150. I've got the step pulleys and pillow blocks. Once Tracy gets the 8x2 and 2x2 poly wheels back in stock I'll have everything I need to finish the build.

I couldn't find 1.75" square tube so I went with 1.5" and increased the thickness from .12 to .1875 for some pieces. I don't think that was necessary and only makes it heavier and harder to drill.
 
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