Josh Dabney
Moderator
Just cannot say thanks enough for sharing with us but...
THANKS ENOUGH ;D
-Josh
THANKS ENOUGH ;D
-Josh
Double guard and framed handle, rear bolsters too
- Thread starter Bruce Bump
- Start date
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I'm having fun doing this one. I found that most of my "work in progress" threads are just that but to actually teach is entirely different. I'm afraid to leave out some of the steps in this one. I hope its not getting too picture heavy.
Mark Behnke
Well-Known Member
Can't have too much light or too many pictures, i feel like I'm standing next to you in the shop.
Think a frame handle is doable.
Thanks to you.
"Me too. When we're done we should start a thread for "Frame Handled Knives Inspired by Bruce's WIP". Quote Travis Fry
Great idea, I'm in.
Think a frame handle is doable.
Thanks to you.
"Me too. When we're done we should start a thread for "Frame Handled Knives Inspired by Bruce's WIP". Quote Travis Fry
Great idea, I'm in.
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Brad Lilly
Moderator and Awards Boss
Excellent idea I know I have drawn lots of inspiration from Bump WIP's.
Josh Dabney
Moderator
No such thing as too pic heavy Bruce ! Sure many makers have the skills to create. The ability to teach via WIP is another skill entirely IMHO and as has been previously stated you are the master of the WIP.
The sharing of your processes inspires confidence in others to take on a new challenge like a frame handle, working ivory, bolsters etc. Guaranteed there are many noobs reading this who see you mounting up your bolsters and are thinking hey... I can do that !!!! I can totally do it.
Priceless stuff assisting others to carry on our craft.
-Josh
The sharing of your processes inspires confidence in others to take on a new challenge like a frame handle, working ivory, bolsters etc. Guaranteed there are many noobs reading this who see you mounting up your bolsters and are thinking hey... I can do that !!!! I can totally do it.
Priceless stuff assisting others to carry on our craft.
-Josh
wdtorque
Well-Known Member
Bruce,
To me, the sign of a skilled craftsman is one that can make a complicated task seem/look easy.
I've seen D9 operators, blacksmith, farriers, painters, cowboys, clowns and tree trimmers do amazing things, to name a few.
Now I have to modify this theory some because of you.
The sign of a very skilled craftsman is one that can illustrate and explain what they do so well, that a complicated task appears common place,
when it is anything but.
Dozier
To me, the sign of a skilled craftsman is one that can make a complicated task seem/look easy.
I've seen D9 operators, blacksmith, farriers, painters, cowboys, clowns and tree trimmers do amazing things, to name a few.
Now I have to modify this theory some because of you.
The sign of a very skilled craftsman is one that can illustrate and explain what they do so well, that a complicated task appears common place,
when it is anything but.
Dozier
C Craft
Well-Known Member
Not too picture heavy for me. I know someone who teaches about building Black Powder rifles and his videos are like standing there talking with him.
I feel the same way about your WIP's! I never check into this thread that I don't walk away without at least learning some little bit of info, and usually I learn a whole new way of doing something! Listening too how you do a particular step in building a knife, is like watching a light bulb go on. I feel like saying, "now why didn't I think of that"!!!
Keep up the good work. You can bet if you leave out something, someone will holler at you. Hey Bruce how did you do this step????? You already know I am not afraid to ask the stupid queston! :what!: :biggrin:
Jim Coffee
Well-Known Member
Man I have a pile of knives on the bench right now but I think they will get pushed to the side. Time for another frame handle..
I cant wait to see the hidden pins..
Question.. Bruce this doesn't matter on this knife, But if the tang was treaded at the rear and you were using a pommel nut would you just drill through the frame and bolsters or would the frame be a 2 piece and have a gap there for the tread to come through? I have seen some of your frame handles with decorative pommel nuts and always wondered how the nut or thread goes through the frame. Thanks for doing this WIP.
Jim
I cant wait to see the hidden pins..
Question.. Bruce this doesn't matter on this knife, But if the tang was treaded at the rear and you were using a pommel nut would you just drill through the frame and bolsters or would the frame be a 2 piece and have a gap there for the tread to come through? I have seen some of your frame handles with decorative pommel nuts and always wondered how the nut or thread goes through the frame. Thanks for doing this WIP.
Jim
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Good question, Thanks,
This framed handle is nearly the same as a "take down" model. The only difference between this one and a take down construction is the tang is left long enough to thread and a barrel nut comes through the pommel. The take down frame has milled rear bolsters, that is to say that the frame is about 1" thick solid steel with allot of steel bandsawed away and milled to size. For that type of extra work I charge extra money. However I have made take downs with a smaller hole and tang. I've used #6 or #8 threaded tangs and bolts.on this type of frame before. I believe the one piece milled rear bolsters is the best simply because I can use stronger and larger diameter #12 or 1/4" threaded tang and barrel nut. I make the barrel nuts on my lathe as you cant buy them.
This framed handle is nearly the same as a "take down" model. The only difference between this one and a take down construction is the tang is left long enough to thread and a barrel nut comes through the pommel. The take down frame has milled rear bolsters, that is to say that the frame is about 1" thick solid steel with allot of steel bandsawed away and milled to size. For that type of extra work I charge extra money.
However I have made take downs with a smaller hole and tang. I've used #6 or #8 threaded tangs and bolts.on this type of frame before. I believe the one piece milled rear bolsters is the best simply because I can use stronger and larger diameter #12 or 1/4" threaded tang and barrel nut. I make the barrel nuts on my lathe as you cant buy them.
Man I have a pile of knives on the bench right now but I think they will get pushed to the side. Time for another frame handle..
I cant wait to see the hidden pins..
Question.. Bruce this doesn't matter on this knife, But if the tang was treaded at the rear and you were using a pommel nut would you just drill through the frame and bolsters or would the frame be a 2 piece and have a gap there for the tread to come through? I have seen some of your frame handles with decorative pommel nuts and always wondered how the nut or thread goes through the frame. Thanks for doing this WIP.
Jim
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Today I spent some time shaping the scales around the edges and both ends. I wedge them into position and using a mechanical pencil mark around the frame onto the back of the scales and at the front and rear. With a sharp 120 grit belt I remove more excess and get very close to the lines. The front of the scales get a "cheek" for lack of a better term and the rear just gets rounded. I use the 1/2" drum to work on the edges as shown in the picture and the foredoom on the rest of the edges. They only need to be close as these areas will be touched up again and polished after the hidden pins cure.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
On to the hidden pins next.
I shortened a 3/32" drill bit by grinding off the shank end and chucking it into my dremel several times until it was just the right length to reach through the liners and frame and into the back side of the scales but not all the way through. The holes in the front and along the edges are the most nerve wracking because the ivory is thinner in those areas. The holes ended up being only about 1/8" deep but that should easily suffice in holding these scales on. Heck they stay on almost by themselves without pins right now.
I popped the frame apart and scraped off the super glue from the tang and frame. All these parts will next get cleaned and finish sanded. The blade needs to be hand rubbed to 2500 grit and acid etched slightly to show the clay coat temper line. After all that it will be time to cureassemble and final sanding and polishing of the ivory.
This WIP is winding down guys.
I shortened a 3/32" drill bit by grinding off the shank end and chucking it into my dremel several times until it was just the right length to reach through the liners and frame and into the back side of the scales but not all the way through. The holes in the front and along the edges are the most nerve wracking because the ivory is thinner in those areas. The holes ended up being only about 1/8" deep but that should easily suffice in holding these scales on. Heck they stay on almost by themselves without pins right now.
I popped the frame apart and scraped off the super glue from the tang and frame. All these parts will next get cleaned and finish sanded. The blade needs to be hand rubbed to 2500 grit and acid etched slightly to show the clay coat temper line. After all that it will be time to cureassemble and final sanding and polishing of the ivory.
This WIP is winding down guys.
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Raymond Richard
Forum Owner & Moderator
Looking good there Sonny. Surprised to see your not using amber stag. Will you be heading to Little Rock again? I sent my balance in a couple weeks ago. See you there if I remember to go.
Surprised to see your not using amber stag. Will you be heading to Little Rock again? I sent my balance in a couple weeks ago. See you there if I remember to go.Jim Moenck
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bruce, that helps a lot. I've be gone for a few days and I'm just catching up on this thread. Thanks for all your work.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Hey Papa,
I had this ivory screaming to be used on something.
Nope, on Little Rock. I actually dont have a show scheduled anywhere for next year. I might just take a year off of shows. I'd sure like to do Blade but not with a table.
I had this ivory screaming to be used on something.
Nope, on Little Rock. I actually dont have a show scheduled anywhere for next year. I might just take a year off of shows. I'd sure like to do Blade but not with a table.
Looking good there Sonny.
Raymond Richard
Forum Owner & Moderator
I almost asked for a refund of my deposit but decided to do the show again. I'm still after that 20 pound stripped bass. I caught its 10 pound little sister last year.
I was thinking the ivory scales you used were sambar stag. After taking a closer look at the photos of the ivory scales they almost look like they were jigged to me. Looks to be another fine looking knife your in the process of making!
Steven Janik
SUPERMOD & AWARDS BOSS
Bruce,
Great as usual.
On the last set of hidden pins I did I actually tapped the holes in the liners and used a piece of 4-40 all thread (a bolt with the head cut of). The holes thru the frame were slightly oversized and not tapped but the liners were tapped and a bit of thread protruded out both sides to give the epoxy a foothold. I filled the interior and the threads with JB weld and squeezed it all together, then snipped the head off at the proper height. All in all, it was probably overkill but it helps me sleep.
Steve
Great as usual.
On the last set of hidden pins I did I actually tapped the holes in the liners and used a piece of 4-40 all thread (a bolt with the head cut of). The holes thru the frame were slightly oversized and not tapped but the liners were tapped and a bit of thread protruded out both sides to give the epoxy a foothold. I filled the interior and the threads with JB weld and squeezed it all together, then snipped the head off at the proper height. All in all, it was probably overkill but it helps me sleep.
Steve
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
This ivory is different than any I've used before. I thought it was stag at first because of the pattern too but its all natural.
Good luck catching that 20 pound bass next spring.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I spent most of the day cleaning and polishing the guard and frame. Also hand rubbed the blade to 2000 grit, etched my logo on and dipped it in ferric chloride a few times to bring out the wavy temper line. This is clay coated W2 and came out just as good as I hoped for. Better shots of it soon enough.
I used JB Weld as usual epoxy the guard, spacer and frame. I clamped it together very tight and cleaned off the excess with mineral spirits and a rag. The final cleanup is with a toothpick so no epoxy is visible. I also put some epoxy down the pommel/tang area and hung it up to dry overnight.
I used JB Weld as usual epoxy the guard, spacer and frame. I clamped it together very tight and cleaned off the excess with mineral spirits and a rag. The final cleanup is with a toothpick so no epoxy is visible. I also put some epoxy down the pommel/tang area and hung it up to dry overnight.