do you test every knife? how? when?

SHOKR

SHOKR

Well-Known Member
well the title pretty much says it all

knife testing is a new concept to me, i guess since before my main concern was just finishing a knife, now i'm concerned with quality :D

so when do you guys test knives? (every once in a while or every knife? and when during the process itself)

the most important part is HOW, wood, wire, bamboo, palm (leaves?) paper, etc.? what determines the performance (i know it depends on the type of course)

also if you sharpen he knife for testing, when you are about to finish it? do you dull it?

thanks a lot, any info i may need to know and missed is absolutely welcome! :D
 
I use the brass Rod test to see the response of the finished edge.

Just get a 1/4" or larger round of brass rod and watch to see the edge flex and then return to center of the blade with NO distortion as you bring the down and across the brass rod. This can be done after you have done most of the finish grinding and before you do the handle. I do it on my finish blades and then rebuff the final edge.

Since you are relying on this local HTer this would be a good way to check his work.

After that Food, Wood, Paper etc for your own test drive is something you can develop based on the knives end use?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Ummm huh?!
Sorry Laurence but i really didnt get what you meant at all. you lost me after 1/4" or larger. I picked up again around doing it before handles tho :D

Thanks

Edit: i actually read it again, and what i understood is i'll movecthe edge along the rod and cross is it (as if i am cutting it). Am i close? Just dont get the flexing and distortion part.
Soo-rryyyy :D
 
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Skor I to was at a point where I was happy to have finished a blade but as time went on I became more concerned with performance and began to focus more on geometry, nailing ht and fit and finish. I will break blades on occasion to see whats inside and how and when it broke. I test the edge on the brass rod and will do comparison test with blades and steel of the same shape, edge thickness and spine thickness.

Knives are made for cutting so cut stuff! Honestly this next sentence is hard for me to swallow but I am making myself stick to it as well this year; Focus on 1 or two steels and really learn them well. Do buy into the hype of ONE STEEL TO RULE THEM ALL. I think you will be amazed with what you can accomplish with just 1084 and 5160 and for much less money :)
 
Laurence, thanks, will check the article now

Shane, thanks. And ive used 2 steels so far and third is in progress, not by choice tho lol
But i do believe that the more i focus on a steel or two the better, eventually will reach that stage (i hope :))
 
I will put an edge on after finish grinding and whack on 2x4's, cut paper, cut card board and see how the edge holds up. I always test at this point before spending time hand sanding or attaching the handle. Those are things I do on every knife using a heat treatment method I found works well for my set up. If any of the parameters change I will do a brass rod test as Laurence mentions to make sure the edge is not too hard or soft. If you are doing your own heat treating your will do well to spend a lot of time learning how to best heat treat it using your equipment before moving on to another steel. I have been making knives for about 4 years and have only learned to maximize heat treat on 2 of them and I am spending time learning to get the most out of another.
 
Thanks a lot Barry
Someone doea HTing for me, and so far it seems good, but nonetheless i like to be sure. If i plan on selling or even giving away a knife, i must make sure of the quality, my reputation is on the line you know?!
 
Can/have you asked your heat treater what they do? Can you specify the heat treatment you want?

I test knives in all kinds of ways, appropriate to the knife. My first kitchen knife revealed some issues when used to chop into wood (simulated whacking of a cutting board). My last outdoor knife (really thin puukko style) was tested for batoning, throwing (we all know we do it), and digging a hole in a board (tip strength and cutting ability).

I have to say I've not found the brass rod test to be very useful. Every knife I have tested will pass, from my $7 Old Hickory butcher knife, to my Faberware kitchen knives (8" chef's knife tested), and my Delica and Griptillian. Admittedly I used a screwdriver shank, but all the knives edges would flex visibly in good light and return to straight. Afterward, a pass down my thumb nail revealed no roughness from the polished edge. There was one exception I tried just for fun. I tried a blade made from spheroidized 1095. It would not pass, surprisingly enough.
 
thanks me2

the HT told me once in passing he does stress release, then hardens then tempers. we didnt get into specific details. but i am actually supposed to go see him for couple of things, if it is time to mention this would be now

however i must say i tested two knives (one more than the other) but both performed really well. the leaf spring one cut wood, paper, paracord, and 1cm wire and still was shaving sharp, only needed resharpening when i messed up couple of soda cans

from now however i want to test the knives, so was curious about the 'general standards' for testing, basicly i can get creative but i wanted to know the bare minimum :)
 
Btw, what do you guys do with the sharp edge once youre done with testing? (and its time to hand sand and such)

Thanks
 
I leave it sharp and hand sand it. This blends in the sharpening line so the entire blade has one finish on it. Then it is only a matter of touching up the edge when you're finished.
 
BarryC:233988 said:
I leave it sharp and hand sand it. This blends in the sharpening line so the entire blade has one finish on it. Then it is only a matter of touching up the edge when you're finished.
Click to expand...

I am so clumsy i cant handsand a knife while its sharp, specially after what i saw what they can do!

I tested a knife today, so after that i just lightly touched the edge on the grinder with a really old 120g, removed the sharpness but the second bevel is still there
 
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