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This is my 61st knife, and I think it turned out OK. The handle is a piece of stabilised masurbirch, the fingerguard and pins are brass. The blade is made by the Linder factory in Solingen, Germany, it is made from ATS-34 and hardened to 60 Hrc. The sheath is 3-3.5mm leather dyed brown...

Hi Gary I use raw linseed oil mixed with vegetable turpentine (pine turpentine?) in a 2:1 mix and then add a hardener to the mix. The turpentine works as a thinner and help the oil soak in deeper and faster. There are different hardeners, I have chosen a leadfree hardener with a minimum of...

Thank you for the nice words guys :) These knives are not hard to make, the most important tool is a mitre-sawblade put into a wooden handle to help opening up the hole inside the handle :) Is it possible to add some kind of [Hide] tags around the pictures so you don't have to wait 2 mins...

All done for now :)

Here comes the last part before using epoxy. I was going to fit a piece of tooth to butt end, but I think it would ruin the simple look the knife has right now, so I'll save that piece for another knife. A picture of the knife in the vise, then one of a piece of sandingpaper, and then a couple...

I altered the front of the knife a little, almost not visible, I didn't want to disturb the lines so I tried my hand at something new. The first tools needed was a small vise and a jewellers saw, the white thing is a bolster I have discarded a long time ago because it didn't fit properly, it...

I like filing and rasping better than grinding, I find it easier to control. Thank you for your nice words.

Next step: Covered the blade in tape to avoid scratching it, or cutting myself, and then started with the large rasp and a smaller half round rasp. I remove the knife from the vise often to check the shape. Then shape a little more etc... Then I clean up with a file to remove...

Scandinavian knife WIP #finnished# (56k Beware, Pic Heavy) If it is in the wrong forum then I apologise. I have been taking some pictures in the workshop tonight. It is the first time in a while since I have had the wiring redone :) Knifeblade and a piece of wood: The first plan...

But I did make a cut at an angle and then pressed the leather down to get a better looking edge on the sheath, so it isn't the fuzzy edge/backside that is out but "narvsidan". Thank you very much for the nice words, it means a lot when they come from a man with your skills.

Thanks Seved, it is dry now. I have done some sheaths where I chamfered the leather but this time I wanted it to have a thick edge.

I was a little last creative night: Now I just need to dye it, but choosing the colors is difficult so suggestions are welcome.

Everything is there except for the scandigrind, this is a full convex damascusblade forged by danish Blacksmith Aage Frederiksen. The handle is made from grenadillo, thuya, fibrespacers and bolster in Mammoth Ivory. The sheath is half-tan leather, sewn and decorated by me. I hop you like it :)

It's a full convex :) Thank you very much for your positive comments, once I get back from todays skiing I will take some better photos :)

Blade by Aage Frederiksen The handle is grenadillo, thuya burl red and blue fibre spcaers and mammoth ivory. I hope you like the knife. Let me know what you think. I will do some better photos when the weather outside gets better :)

The latest knife I made, it is far from my normal scandinavian designs, but I had fun making it. The blade is a very old J. Neilson blade, the wood is a piece of grenadillo, pretty dense stuff, brass fittings and fibre spacers.

A Fallkniven F1 where the thermouroun handle was giving up, so I gave it a little "once-over" Brass hardware and rivets, Stabilised Masur birch and blue fibres :)

I guess this one fits better in shop talk than in the tutorials :) Blade is an old J. Neilson creation that I got "partly used" from another knifemaker. The "hump# is not there anymore, and it looks way bigger in the pictures than it really was. I will post another picture once I have...

I made it :D It is a time consuming proces, a couple of hours. The leather is made in a way so the middle layer is raw, that way it can be modelled, when wet, with pieces of bone, modelling irons etc. It is quite commen on scandinavian knives, another benefit is, that when the leather dries...

Hello from Denmark. I thought I'd stop buy and register to show some of my work. I have been making knives as a hobby since 2006, mainly in scandinavian designs but sometimes I sneak in more "modern" designs. I mainly work with natural materials, and almost everything is done by hand, without...