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I have done a plate quench for 12c27, 1975F for 10min ( small thin blade) temper twice for 2 hrs @425. Had inspection at my machine shop test it, 58/59 hrc

I believe this is the video referred to... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQgikXUhVfQ Please correct if I'm wrong

After using a gloved finger for a bit I started using the stiff felt pads you can get at Michael's to apply Tru-oil. I use that same felt (clean one) to do the buffing after letting the Tru-oil soak in/ partially dry for a few minutes. In the picture left to right: New pad, buff pad, application...

Thanks Ken for taking the time and effort to contact manufacturers and for providing their responses. I have been pondering the expected failure lifetime of the epoxied we commonly use.

Is it possible to use a lesser grade of stainless for oyster knives since edge retention didn't seem to be a major factor, maybe is a 410 or 420 stainless, maybe even a 316?

You're welcome Ken, my talented wife recognized it, she's a graphic designer took her all of 2 seconds

Try apple chancery italic

For new knifemakers such as myself... Don't overthink. Sometimes I find myself focusing too much on whether i'm doing a task "right" or the way it's supposed to be done, instead of just doing and knowing that I will probably screw up many times before I find my way of doing it right. End...

You must always think you're latest knife could have been better.

Sure Doug no problem. The key is to rock the blade across the lines of the recurve, making sure to hang the belt off the platen equally on both sides. And here is a short video clip... http://1drv.ms/1wuX377

I suppose I should provide some details... Tip to ricasso: 3.5" OAL: 8.25" Width at widest point on blade: 1.375" Handle width: Approx .75" Blade: 1095 Handle: Rosewood

I like it, the carbon fiber pin with the maroon micarta is a nice combo, also like how the blade slants up after the handle I assume for a better thumb forward grip.

Here are a couple of quick shots with my phone... Not great but my first attempts at new things rarely are lol I'm liking copper pins the more I use them, any advice on how force a patina on copper pins?

Haha good point Ricky, the sides don't match 100% and I'll post a picture tomorrow. But both sides do look great independently. The top grinds match at least, just finished after ht today.

Also thanks for the compliments rmbonham, remember the edge of the belt is your friend. At least that helped me... Good luck, I look forward to seeing your first try

Thanks for the positive feedback Steve, Ken, Mark. Laurence, I often just get an idea in my head and sketch it out on paper ( French curves are my friend) I'm not much of a hunter just have a love and fascination with sharp things. I even try not to look at makers knives before a sketch...

Just wanted to post a quick photo of my first attempt at grinding a blade with a serious recurve, I've done slight recurv's but this is my first attempt at what I would call a true recurve. Comments and criticism welcome.

As a beginner myself I agree with Steve 100% cut the shapes out of something cheaper and easier to work with first, I've learned that doing this with material similar in thickness to the steel you intend to eventually is much more productive

That is one nice looking utility. I was hoping to see the black spacers on that first pic but seems a little too out of focus for the spacers to show up, is it just me?

Lacewood vs Leapard wood From my local wood guy tells me Lacewood is a generic name for a number of different species of wood that display that spotted pattern, Leopard wood being one of those species. Here is some Leopard wood I bought recently... Left side has Tung oil right side is just...