Wet forming late in the game?

[KentuckyFisherman]

I've made my first three sheaths, and the fit was good enough that I didn't feel the need to wet form the leather. All have Resolene applied as the surface finish.

My question is this: Can I back up the train at this point and wet form these? Apply the water to the outside or inside? My understanding is that Resolene is at least somewhat waterproof. Or maybe just leave 'em alone and do it right next time?

 

[Alden Cole]

If nothing is broke, don't fix it At least IMHO and I don't think the leather would form well after having a coat put on it.

 

[tkroenlein]

I only wet form to fit a sheath that is a bit too tight. You really won't get a good result if you are looking for "definition" in the wet form.

 

[vlegski]

Start over and do it right.. I've done it several times. Slow learner and hated the idea of starting. I was never really pleased with the results. It didn't form as well and the resolene didn't last as long. In one case the black boot dye and the resolene started to lift off as I pressed hard for forming. Thats the only time I was not pleased with that product. As an aside. When I hand a knife over to anyone its 95% of the time in a sheath. The sheath and the handle are the first things the person sees. Its quality should reflect the quality you put into the knife.

 

[EdCaffreyMS]

IMO, once you've applied any finish, it's too late to go back and wet form. Personally, I wet form all my sheaths... I think it's one of those details that reads "value added" to most buyers. There are a couple of things that will dramatically impact whether wet forming works well or not.
#1. Firs and foremost is the quality of the leather being used. A quality Oak (also called "bark", "vegetable" "natural") tanned leather is a must. Cheap, chrome tanned leather simply doesn't wet form well.
#2. You must ensure the leather is "in case" (moldable) once wetted. That generally means HOT water, and allow the sheath to soak for a minute or two. The way I tell when the leather is "in case" (moldable) is that is actually smells like cows.... and maybe even faintly like cow manure.

Next, I make sure my hands are washed/clean prior to starting, and once the leather is in case, I insert the knife, and use my hands/fingers to "mold" everything the way I want it.
Another option to achieve a very tight molding, is to oil or wax the entire knife well, then wrap it in saran wrap, insert it into the wet sheath, and then, using a typical household vacuum sealer, put it inside a bag, seal it, and leave it overnight. It won't dry a bit, but next day the leather will be a tightly formed to the knife as it's ever going to be. (Provided you followed #s 1 & 2 above. Cut the bag open, gently take the knife out of the sheath, and hang the sheath to COMPLETELY dry. Check the knife to ensure it didn't get and spots or stains on it!

There are times I will do the vacuum seal thing, but the risk of getting a rust or tarnish on the blade or fitting is pretty high.... and nothing is worse then having a knife completely done/detailed, and then have to go back and try to fix something that could have been avoided. As I always talk about..... it's another "trade off" in making knives.

 

[Jon Buescher]

IMO, once you've applied any finish, it's too late to go back and wet form. Personally, I wet form all my sheaths... I think it's one of those details that reads "value added" to most buyers. There are a couple of things that will dramatically impact whether wet forming works well or not.
#1. Firs and foremost is the quality of the leather being used. A quality Oak (also called "bark", "vegetable" "natural") tanned leather is a must. Cheap, chrome tanned leather simply doesn't wet form well.
#2. You must ensure the leather is "in case" (moldable) once wetted. That generally means HOT water, and allow the sheath to soak for a minute or two. The way I tell when the leather is "in case" (moldable) is that is actually smells like cows.... and maybe even faintly like cow manure.

Next, I make sure my hands are washed/clean prior to starting, and once the leather is in case, I insert the knife, and use my hands/fingers to "mold" everything the way I want it.
Another option to achieve a very tight molding, is to oil or wax the entire knife well, then wrap it in saran wrap, insert it into the wet sheath, and then, using a typical household vacuum sealer, put it inside a bag, seal it, and leave it overnight. It won't dry a bit, but next day the leather will be a tightly formed to the knife as it's ever going to be. (Provided you followed #s 1 & 2 above. Cut the bag open, gently take the knife out of the sheath, and hang the sheath to COMPLETELY dry. Check the knife to ensure it didn't get and spots or stains on it!

There are times I will do the vacuum seal thing, but the risk of getting a rust or tarnish on the blade or fitting is pretty high.... and nothing is worse then having a knife completely done/detailed, and then have to go back and try to fix something that could have been avoided. As I always talk about..... it's another "trade off" in making knives.

I made a big mistake on my first sheath I made, I oiled/waxed the knife wrapped it in seran and put it in the sheath as described, the next day I took the knife out of the sheath and cleaned it up and for some reason I put the knife back in the sheath when I ended my day. RUST BUCKET and the nickel silver reacted with the leather dye so yeah, follow Ed's vice carefully that part where he hangs the sheath to COMPLETELY dry, COMPLETELY is important.