Mark Barone
Well-Known Member
Can spacers be used between wood species as long as each piece of wood ends up having at least one pin in it? For example . 3 2x2 blocks of wood separated by spacers.
Spacers in hidden tang knives?
- Thread starter Mark Barone
- Start date
tkroenlein
Well-Known Member
I think what you're asking is if handle made from many pieces of whatever need a pin in each section.
I'm not a pro or make the rules, but I'd simply suggest that you note the construction of any stacked Scagel style knife, leather stack, or a handle held on by a nut. Many times there is only a single mechanical connection in the last piece and the rest are only sandwiched between the guard/blade shoulders and that last piece. Hope that helps.
I'm not a pro or make the rules, but I'd simply suggest that you note the construction of any stacked Scagel style knife, leather stack, or a handle held on by a nut. Many times there is only a single mechanical connection in the last piece and the rest are only sandwiched between the guard/blade shoulders and that last piece. Hope that helps.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
^^^ Excellent advice. My input would be to just think about making the entire assembly as mechanically sound as possible..... I couldn't find a pic of a 3 piece handle like you spoke of, but I do make a lot of 2 piece handles for hidden tangs.
First, and I feel most important, is to ensure the tang extends as far as possible into the rear piece of handle material when finished. For the best mechanical joining, a "butt nut" would be best. However, if that's not how you'd like to do it, just make sure the tang is as close to the butt end of the handle as possible when finished. In the knife above, not only did is "build" the handle material "block" before hand, I also use 3/32" pins lengthwise into each piece of wood, and through the spacers. One of the "tricks" that I have used forever, is that the vast majority of my spacers are black, or at least there is always a black spacer next to the wood/handle material...... and when "gluing" up the handle/handle materials, I use black dye in my Acraglas. You still have to be pretty darn close on your cuts/angles, but the combination of black spacer, and black dyed Acraglas make any/all minor gaps or misalignments disappear.
First, and I feel most important, is to ensure the tang extends as far as possible into the rear piece of handle material when finished. For the best mechanical joining, a "butt nut" would be best. However, if that's not how you'd like to do it, just make sure the tang is as close to the butt end of the handle as possible when finished. In the knife above, not only did is "build" the handle material "block" before hand, I also use 3/32" pins lengthwise into each piece of wood, and through the spacers. One of the "tricks" that I have used forever, is that the vast majority of my spacers are black, or at least there is always a black spacer next to the wood/handle material...... and when "gluing" up the handle/handle materials, I use black dye in my Acraglas. You still have to be pretty darn close on your cuts/angles, but the combination of black spacer, and black dyed Acraglas make any/all minor gaps or misalignments disappear.
Mark Barone
Well-Known Member
Very helpful advice above. Thank you.