Scandi bevel degrees?

F

Forgedog

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know off hand what the general bevel angle is in degrees for a scandi edge?
Specifically the mora knives preferably.

Also im wondering thoughts and opinions on these?

I have a couple moras from when they were cheap.
Now it seeks like everyone and their dog has a mora.

Im into a fair bit of survival/bushcraft stuff and it seems very popular with that crowd.

I rather like the feel of mine and they are useful...
But.

Im just not sure about the tang... I hear they have full tang models but even on their website all I can find are thick rat tail tangs.
Is that what people are callng full tang?

The fullest tang ive seen on their blanks imo anyway doesnt seem very solid.

Also for the price now...

When they were $19 I should have bought a dozen lol.
At $100 plus for the full tang carbon steel I think id just make my own tbh.
Real full tang, wood handle.

Just considering the pros and cons.
 
From MoraKniv: (question regarding the Garberg model)

“The edge angle is 27°, as it is on the majority of our knives with a 3,2 mm thick blade.”

So that’s 13.5° per side. The reason they cut so well is the thin blade. (just over .080)

Mora finally offered a full tang knife to satisfy the bushcraft community who love to split firewood with their knife, although people have been using stick tang Moras to baton wood ever since bushcrafting became a thing.

As to Scandi grinds, a lot of people really do like a microbevel edge so that they don’t have to remove steel from the entire bevel to sharpen the knife. If that’s the plan, go steep on the bevels so that the microbevel can still be the cutting angle you want. (if you’re into specific angles or if that’s how your sharpening system is set up)
 
Per a video I saw speaking with one of the old timers at Mora, all their knives have (and all Scandis need) a "micro bevel." This will raise the hackles on all the righteous followers of the scandi grind, but as the fellow explained, even stropping the wire edge off (as Mora does) will create a micro bevel that is absolutely essential to edge stability.

All my scandis are convexed. :eek: :)
 
tkroenlein said:
Per a video I saw speaking with one of the old timers at Mora, all their knives have (and all Scandis need) a "micro bevel." This will raise the hackles on all the righteous followers of the scandi grind, but as the fellow explained, even stropping the wire edge off (as Mora does) will create a micro bevel that is absolutely essential to edge stability.

All my scandis are convexed. :eek: :)
Click to expand...

excellent points
 
Austin Thrasher said:

Online Knife Grind Calculator - D. Comeau

A handy online tool for the knifemaker to determine the angle to use when grinding single or double bevel blades.
dcknives.com

This knife grind calculator has came on really handy for me when grinding scandi grinds on a jig.
Click to expand...
Ima ask you question...

When using a jig on a scandi knife, can you describe to me the movement of the blade across the platen, as in straight across and parallel, pulling or pushing the tang, etc.

I have only ever free handed. Somewhere north of 100 blades, and I simply cannot in my mind resolve how a bevel of uniform width is made from plunge to tip is made.

I am interested in using a jig for scandis, as it is a bit more difficult "feeling" bevels under or at a 1/2" wide, so...I kinda wreck 'em.
 
I’ll try to explain this the best I can remember. I normally grind one side at a time close to a center line that’s scribed on the edge of the blade and I usually start on the left side of the knife, edge up which would mean I’m pulling from left to right starting from where a plunge line would be. While the edge is straight, I’m dragging to the right in a straight line. As I get to the tip I have to pull the knife and jig backwards towards myself to accommodate for the curve of the tip.
I’ve done it that way but it seems like it can also be done by doing all the pulling in a straight line if I remember right. It just feels weird doing it cause the belt doesn’t touch the blade where you think it should. At least until the grind is more established.
Hopefully that makes a little sense...

tkroenlein said:
Ima ask you question...

When using a jig on a scandi knife, can you describe to me the movement of the blade across the platen, as in straight across and parallel, pulling or pushing the tang, etc.

I have only ever free handed. Somewhere north of 100 blades, and I simply cannot in my mind resolve how a bevel of uniform width is made from plunge to tip is made.

I am interested in using a jig for scandis, as it is a bit more difficult "feeling" bevels under or at a 1/2" wide, so...I kinda wreck 'em.
Click to expand...
 
I’ve been using an online angle calculator & Jigs since 2014(when my arm was paralyzed).

Free-handing with the one arm/hand is a might too “superhuman” for the likes of me, LOL!
 
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