Scabbard For Hunting Sword

LRB

LRB

Well-Known Member
Finished this one yesterday. It was made for the 18" blade shell guard hunting sword by Kyle Willyard. 7 to 8 oz vege-tan leather, Mounts are low carb 22 ga. steel, all hand made and hand formed. The locket on the throat is sawed, ground, and filed to shape from a 3/8" bar, silver brazed on with a reinforcement pin though the throat. The leather is mildly hardened, and oiled. The steel mounts were cold browned to match the sword. Now I have make a shoulder strapped frog for it. Hope you enjoy a look.


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That is one fine sheath.
I don't see any sheaths like that except in the old bowie books, love the stitched back, molded leather and the browning.
I always say simple is not easy.

What a great job.

Thanks for showing.
Mark
 
Most of that two-tone is shadows. All I did for color is oil the leather.
 
Wick as usual great work! :35:

One day you need to do picture WIP on how you build one of these sheaths. I know you have told me before how you do the leather work on this type of sheath but pictures would really add that bit of information to fill in the holes. I would also love to see the making of the frog and the tip of this type of sheath.

I had a karate instructor tell me one time that there were three methods of learning and not everyone learned in the same way! Some can be told, others have to be shown and the third needs both to have it explained and then shown. Sometimes I am in the third group!:biggrin:
 
Cliff. check out this tute I am posting. I use use the same basics as shown for the tips/chapes. The throats are wrapped/bent around the leather with it having a wood/metal filler inserted to prevent distortion. After trimming and further fitting for a tight butt joint up the center back, the throat is silver brazed together. The top cap is soldered on over sized with a cadmium 600 degree solder, then trimmed and drilled and filed out for the blade entry. To make the frog locket, I saw out a piece from 1/4" to 3/8" bar steel, in either a L or a T profile, then rough grind and file to shape. A hole is drilled in the base of the locket, and in the throat, and with a reinforcement pin inserted, it is silver brazed in place. This is done before the top cap is soldered, of course. In the tute, the guy holds the two halves of the sheath together with wire. For the smaller tips/chapes, I don't bother but just use a weak spring clamp, or even a gentle hold in the vise. If in a vise, once one side is brazed, it will not shift on you, and you can turn it over and do the other side, and also do any adjustments that may be needed. Once finished the parts are glued in place to the sheath, and pinned with ribbed pins which are also glued in the leather. All of which are able to be removed by applying heat, if there is ever a need to.
http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/nssheath.html
 
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