Re-profiling bevel angles. When?

T

The Tourist

Guest
The primary focus of my sharpening is not for beauty, but for utility. My problem lies with the issue of the client telling me what he thinks he wants, but not projecting on how he is going to live with what he has asked.

When first asked about his expectations, unless the tool is an ulu, most clients respond with the old canard, "Razor sharp." And as you can imagine, my next concern probes into his intended use, his usual cutting surface, the number of hours he works, is he the only user...

And frankly, he might define an edge that is over polished, far too thin, easy to chip, impossible to maintain and most assuredly one that will get me complaints.

So prevalant is this concern about bragging rights that one of friends--who should know better--knocks down every edge he owns whether new, old or perfectly functional, back to 15 degrees. This includes EDCs, camp knives, cheap knives, and every kitchen knife. All edges must be refined beyond intended use, and in a constant strive to "push the envelope."

In opposition, I haven't the faintest idea what my current EDC measures. It works, it provides retention, and it's even pretty to look at. I haven't lost a fight with a UPS box yet.

In my new attempt to quit self-censoring, it's my outright opinion that no one in the entire USA needs this "golden mean" except professionally trained sushi chefs, and darn few of them, to boot. I don't even think fugu is legal to serve here, anyway.

Clearly, you guys have a standard, a thought, an opinion, or a set of conditions needed to begin forming bevels. How do you make that decision and on what criteria?
 
I would have thought this was pretty obvious.

(1) What bevel(s) came with the knife?
(2) What is the intended usage?
(3) What is the steel capable of?

If (1) ≠ (2) then a re-bevel is in order provided (3) will permit it

I prefer to convex or micro-convex the edges on most of my knives anyway - getting a specific angle is not possible cause there isn't one on a convex grind
 
I'm not sure I understand this post completely. But what I know about sharpening is the smaller degree 15-17 degrees is what razor blades are. The degree I use on my pocket knifes is 25 degrees per side. On heavy knives ie: camp knives 30 degrees. The sharper degrees dull quicker, From my experience most good pocket knives come from the factory with around a 25 degree angle. I own Emerson, Cold Steels, Spyderco, MOD, Case, you name them & when I sharpen them with my Lansky diamond sharpener I find most to be right there at 25 degrees per side.
 
When the edge becomes fat. Thats when I reprofile. Then its going to slice again and be good for a good while with regular maintenance on a Sharpmaker or Diamond Pad DMT sharpener until it gets fat again and once its obtuse to the point I'm noticing it doesn't slice as well as it did in the past I whip out the Edge Pro and reset the bevel.

STR
 
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