question on a first sheath.

C

Cameron Wilcox

Well-Known Member
I am wondering which is easier to make a kydex or leather sheath. I want it to be friction held. no straps or anything to forget/not close all the way and have the knife fall out. I like kydex but am iffy about making one because I have never done it. I have some leather working tools from my dad

I have seen Tracy's tutorial on kydex but don't know anything about pin size and kydex thickness, nor do I have an arbor press. but I am looking to buy one soon anyway.

any advise is very much appreciated.
 
Kydex is less time consuming but there is a learning curve with both. Kydex is more tool/equipment intensive to produce a basic sheath, and that may be the kicker for you if you already have leather tools. Kydex is probably easier to do molded-retention with but if the knife is designed for it it can be accomplished with leather also.
 
If you use chicago screws, you don't need an arbor press. The tricky part is making the foam press itself, but Tracy suggests buying the cheap camping mat (or a surplus army sleeping mat) and chopping it up to size. I plan on using (2) 1x4s, with layers of foam, total thickness no more that just a smidge under 4" so I can clamp it in my vises jaws.

For me the question came down to use of knife as well. Kydex is more forgiving in wet environments, where my knives will mostly be used (around salt water), so I'm starting there. However, you might also ask about style - some designs need to be carried in leather :biggrin:
 
That is a question that can only be answered by someone that has done both.
chapnelson is correct in that there is a learning curve with both, kydex is very tool intensive, not quite as easy as it may look but not hard.
The make or break of a kydex sheath is the press.
 
I hadn't done kydex before the military build, I've never been impressed with plastic anything and the way kydex scratches certain materials. BUT......once I tried it, I was impressed with the posibilities. Even better, after viewing Tracy's video, it looked simpler than I'd imagined.

The press was simple....my bench top, a piece of plywood, hinge and the foam. My heat source was my heat gun from work. I used a metal plate to heat the kydex on. As far as rivets, Tracy's site tells you what thickness of kydex they're made for(X2). I used the cheapo punch to set them on my anvil. It worked slicker than you know what. For trimming I used the band saw and shears. The grinder for final contour. I surprised myself with the final results, I couldn't believe it was that easy. The press also works with wet forming leather. In short.....Don't be afraid of new things, like I was for so many years.

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Rudy
 
thanks for all the help. I think I am going to start with kydex and do some leather if I need one for looks. At the moment I am going for utility and practice, aesthetics can wait.
:cool:
 
bubbawilcox said:
thanks for all the help. I think I am going to start with kydex and do some leather if I need one for looks. At the moment I am going for utility and practice, aesthetics can wait.
:cool:
Click to expand...

That seems reasonable. Kydex WILL scratch the dickens out of a blade, whether it's the kydex itself or any bit of grit or dirt that somehow gets in there... on the other hand it's basically maintenance-free, you can just rinse it out if you need to... just something to consider.
 
I have heard that. For MY knives I don't mind it getting scratches if its a user, it just gives it character. when selling them I will take that into account though, thanks for the advise.
 
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