Question for the hive mind.

J

Jason Volkert

Well-Known Member
I have read all of the threads on here on building a surface grinder attachment for a 2x72. I know a couple of you have built them.

I have sourced most of the parts.
My question is what size contact wheel should I go with? And for the guys that have built 1, Is there anything that you would change on your design. I am trying to avoid having to build it twice, if you know what I mean. It seems like everything I make to help me make Knives I end up building twice :rolleyes:. I really only want to build this project once lol. I feel like I spend more time building jigs, work benches, storage cabinets, forges and organizing things , then I do actually making knives:(


Thanks in advance
Jason
 
Well Jason - since you've already sourced your parts... wait, does that mean you've acquired the parts? OR - just found a place to get them? Anyway, the parts you've sourced will determine to a great extent your build - wouldn't it?

As to your question of what size contact wheel - it seems a 10" is usually the most recommended if a person only has one size. Since ordering from China has brought the cost of contact wheels within reason - around $100 or so for anything from 8" to 12" contact wheels the cost isn't as bad as it was a few yrs ago.

One of the most important is to be sure it's a VFD with 3 ph motor. Depending on your budget, that can be $250 to $300 for 2hp motor and Chinese VFD shipped, or $700 to $800 for a expensive motor and NEMA 4X VFD. All depends on your budget.

If you didn't have your parts already sourced there was a good design posted on this forum a while back.

Good luck and have fun!
 
80% of contact wheels we sell are 8", maybe more. It will probably be your go to contact wheel size. It fits most contours when edge grinding and shaping handles. It will do a good job on blades smaller than 8" OAL.

Having said that, I like 10" and my 14" wheels. The bigger the wheel, the bigger the hollow grind and that makes it easier for bigger blades.
 
Boss has spoken - 8" is the most popular contact wheel. He's in a position to know since he sells them. I was thinking a 10" wheel was sorta a standard with grinders from manuf folks. Myself, the 8" was the wheel ordered from Boss after using the 10" a while.

Here's the thread on grinder build I like. They way the motor is mounted to same plate that is the side of the tool holder slots automatically lines motor with wheels. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/2x72-grinder-build-2018.1577263/
 
I'm sorry. I most of explained that wrong. I have a 2x71 with 3phase motor and vfd. I want to build a surface grinder attachment for it. I have found where to buy the linear slide rail, linear stage sliding table, and the magnets. I was wondering what size contact wheel I should get for the surface grinder attachment and should it be smooth or serrated?
Jason
 
Jason - I am the one who needs to learn to read. Your first post clearly states "build a surface grinder attachment", but in my haste (speed reading?) I just read the 2X72. I'm sure you've read thru the SGA threads posted here. I like a 6" wheel myself, and don't really think it matters about serrated or smooth. I've used both. The serrated wheel is normally used for lower grit belts for max metal removal while the smooth wheels tend to leave a smoother finish. If you're looking for max smooth finish I'd go with the smooth wheel.

I had a 2" wide smooth wheel at first, but when grinding 2" wide chef knives a 2" wheel/belt combo just doesn't get the full blade. That really isn't an issue because the bevel edge can be ground down by hand a few thou before putting on SGA and it's not a problem at all. Thinking I really wanted the wider wheel I ordered a 3" wide serrated wheel in 6" diameter (couldn't find smooth) and built a 2-1/2" wide mag chuck. I dreamed about using 2-1/2" wide belts, but the batch I purchased from true grit wouldn't run - they'd break at splice joint in less than a minute of running. BUT - the 3" wide wheel holds the 2" belt flatter and seems to get the edges better. At least I've got room to move the blade on the wider chuck.

Either the 2" wide or 2-1/2" wide chuck will work just fine. You're going to LOVE that SGA
 
haha I thought I was losing my mind because I was pretty sure I explained it right. Its all good though.
Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated.

So I'm going to go with the wheel you you suggested, these magnets 20 of them, this platform, this guide rail, a 14"x2"x1" . I know I need like 3 more pieces of aluminum to complete the build but I'm having problem finding out exactly what size's i would need
Jason
 
Jason, those N50 magnets will work like a champ. A question about the platform you linked to, that is for the feed system? Will it lock into place so it doesn't move as your grinding? With a 4" stroke it's more than needed, but should work just fine. I'm sure you've read the thread I did on the feed adjustment I used for my SGA? https://knifedogs.com/threads/feed-adjustment-system.47632/
 
Ken thank you for all your advice and I did not read that post on the feed system until now. Very interesting. And yes that platform I posted would be for the feed system. I saw somewhere in some post someone suggested that 1. I am not a machinest and I have never used a mill before. I do have a mill though. I just bought it and finished setting it up today. I might try building the feed system myself considering I need a good project to break in my mill (and my milling skills lol).

One arm I know you are the original, That's why I posted my question on here because I new you were a member here and hoped you would have answered me. Thank you for the start and the share of this info for all of us broke knife makers out here lol. I think a drug habit is less expensive then getting into making Blades lol. I'm going to start ordering my parts tonight.
 
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