Platen mod ideas for 2 x 42.

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
I work on a 2x42 3/4 hp Jet . It has a 2 x 5 inch 1/8 thick platen that I would like to upgrade. I see folks are using glass platenS but I am not sure where to get it or even if it can be cut to a 5” length. Any other ideas? Also are they rounded equally on the edges. I read if I add a piece of flat steel it is tough to round the corners equally to get a consistent bevel on each side?
 
If you have a window/glass specialty store anywhere near you, go in and see if they handle "Fireplace Glass"...... that is they type of glass to use on a platen. If they handle it, they can cut it any size you need. Now, getting it on the grinder requires a couple of specific things..... first a foremost is some type of "holder" for the glass, with a SHELF AT THE BOTTOM. This is to "catch" the glass should your adhesive fail during use. With a shelf, the glass gets sucked between the belt and the lower wheel.....and then it's a literal explosion of glass shards! Frankly, there is NOTHING that will work as well as glass on a platen. It runs much cooler, creates smoother grinds, and because of it's reduced drag, it can actually make your grinder feel like it's stronger then it actually is.

About the closest alternative would be some type of fully hardened steel. But coming from someone who's tried many type of fully hardened steels for platens..... it's a really poor alternative compared to the ceramic/fireplace glass.

I've never worried about rounding the edges of any platen..... I personally dislike square plunges....so all my radius work on a flat platen is created by running the belt past the edge, and letting it "roll over" the edge to create my plunges.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
If you have a window/glass specialty store anywhere near you, go in and see if they handle "Fireplace Glass"...... that is they type of glass to use on a platen. If they handle it, they can cut it any size you need. Now, getting it on the grinder requires a couple of specific things..... first a foremost is some type of "holder" for the glass, with a SHELF AT THE BOTTOM. This is to "catch" the glass should your adhesive fail during use. With a shelf, the glass gets sucked between the belt and the lower wheel.....and then it's a literal explosion of glass shards! Frankly, there is NOTHING that will work as well as glass on a platen. It runs much cooler, creates smoother grinds, and because of it's reduced drag, it can actually make your grinder feel like it's stronger then it actually is.

About the closest alternative would be some type of fully hardened steel. But coming from someone who's tried many type of fully hardened steels for platens..... it's a really poor alternative compared to the ceramic/fireplace glass.

I've never worried about rounding the edges of any platen..... I personally dislike square plunges....so all my radius work on a flat platen is created by running the belt past the edge, and letting it "roll over" the edge to create my plunges.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you Ed, Could the shelf be created using 2 small bolts under the glass as long as the head of the bolt is not proud and the bolt heads are level with one another. Ok I just talked to a glass shop. They said they have small pieces of ceramic glass for small wood stoves. I am assuming that’s the stuff. They said they can cut it to the 2 x 5 I need. 20 bucks.
I would do that. Besides the shelf , do I epoxy/ J weld it?
 
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Sure...you could do it that way. Just make sure the bolts are slightly "lower" then the surface of the glass.

Yes! the stuff at your glass shop is the correct type of glass. And that's a good price. Make sure you follow "gluing" protocol closely! Wear gloves to keep body oils off the glass and platen surfaces! The only epoxy I would trust is Acraglas, but I have heard of folks using JB weld with success. DO NOT OVER CLAMP IT! A small pony/spring clamp on each end is more then enough. If the glue does not provide FULL SUPPORT under the glass, it WILL break (it will break at any air bubble between the glass and the platen). Here's the payoff....if you are careful and get it glued on well, unless you drop it or bang it with a chunk of steel, it will last a LONG time.....as in years. ;)
 
I agree with Ed. I used JB and it's fine. I put my platen flat side up in a vise, coated in JB Weld, then wiggled it until there were no air bubbles. I did not clamp it at all. Just a piece of blue tape to keep it from sliding off.
Glass platens are a must if you're using a simple mild steel platen.
 
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