Pair of Slippies

K

KenH

Well-Known Member
Well folks - I finally got a couple more folders completed, one in mammoth and one in pre-ban elephant ivory. Both are built to the same pattern as the first, and seems like I learn something new with each knife.

Both has 416 liners 'n milled bolsters. Blade and backspring are 14C28N. Blade is HT'd with a -5ºF freeze that Sandvik says is good for 1/2 point or so, which should mean a bit more toughness. Final Rc with mammoth is 59 and with ivory is 60. Both sharpen so easy to hair popping sharp. The wife fusses 'cause I don't keep much hair on my forearms.

Anyway, here are a couple of photos. The scales are epoxied in place with dimples on liner and on inside of scale so epoxy can hold good. I did one liner as a test with rosewood. After a couple days cure, I had to break rosewood to get it to break loose from metal between bolsters. I "think" this ivory will hold and break before turning loose also.

Pair_of_Slipjoints_side.jpg
The mark on the bottom blade is NOT a mark in blade, just shadow or light mark. I really need to rig up a light box and try to do better with photos.

Pair_of_Slipjoints_top.jpg
You can see the small crack in the mammoth ivory in left folder - the crack isn't loose. I tried to get some super thin CA glue, but not sure any soaked in because crack just too tight.

Comments and suggestions are more than welcome - this is still a learning experience for me. Thank You Calvin for all the mentoring this year. While I've come a long way, there's even further to go in this learning experience.

KD folks - ya'll all have been a big help. I've learned more than I ever expected from following this forum.

Ken H>
 
Looking good Ken!
Since you don't use any pins,have you thought about dovetailing your bolsters and scale material?
 
Thank you Calvin for the nice words. Yep, dove tailing is on my list to do next. I've tested a couple times and I'm able to make it fit up to the dove tail. I'm using a 60º bevel tool - does 60º sound right? OR - should I be using 45º?

Ken H>
 
Thanks Calvin - I went round 'n round with myself trying to figure what angle to use. Now, you've settled it for me - I'll try a 45 bevel.

Ken H>
 
I think perhaps you might see some better grind lines and more precise bolster shapes if you go to some newer belts. The worn ones make you work harder to gvet the results you want and still don't give you what you are working for. as well trying to use a 400 where a 220 should be used just won't get you there. It looks to me you are well on the way to making fine folders. Frank
 
Frank, you are right - I do try to push belts longer than I should. I'm still working out what grit to use sometimes. You can see I'm having problems getting grind lines the same from blade to blade. At least I've got a grind line now - in beginning My grind lines were so bad I'd just blend them so they didn't show. Thank you for your comments - that's how I learn.

Ken H>
 
Calvin, I've always been a slow learner. For some reason I just don';t see any advantage and seem to believe one of those would be a disadvantage. How or where do you hold a blade to grind the bevels? Frank
 
Very interesting knives you've made. I have not started making folders yet. I guess I am a little bit intimidated by the thought of it. Perhaps soon....
When I dovetail fixed blade bolsters I use my disk sander and set the work rest at the angle I need. You can buy a small one at a fairly reasonable price.
 
If you have a sander with a platen and a table, it's a simple matter to make an angle with a plate on the bottoms so you can clamp it on the table to use. If you don't change the setting, then both the bolster and the scale will be exactly the same. I like an angle on the front of my folders which are always curves. I use the angle plate to do these as well. Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
Calvin, I've always been a slow learner. For some reason I just don';t see any advantage and seem to believe one of those would be a disadvantage. How or where do you hold a blade to grind the bevels? Frank
Click to expand...

Frank,
Im neglegent in describing this grinder. It's not for grinding the cutting edge,it's for grinding inside radius of your blades and handle material and also for grinding all edges of the blade and handle,spines and bellies. I also use it for grinding swedges and for grinding scallops and cutting bevels on my bread slicing knives.
 
Thanks for that, I will watch for something more in the future. I make only liner locks and the 2 X 72 with a platen and table seems to do a good job on this. Still when I see it being done on that horizontal I might be impressed enough to change over. Thanks, Calvin, and maybe you could show some simple steps in the use when you have your plans for sale. Frank
 
Ken, I've been contemplating telling you this, hoping someone else would speak up.

Epoxy has great strength holding things together, but it will loosen if struck sideways. If it's shocked by dropping the knife it may come loose.

You need pins or screws to hold your handle material onto the liners in addition to epoxy. I believe Frank and Calvin will agree.
 
Don Robinson said:
Ken, I've been contemplating telling you this, hoping someone else would speak up.

Epoxy has great strength holding things together, but it will loosen if struck sideways. If it's shocked by dropping the knife it may come loose.

You need pins or screws to hold your handle material onto the liners in addition to epoxy. I believe Frank and Calvin will agree.
Click to expand...

I agree Don. I started to mention it but figured some lessons are better learned the hard way.:biggrin:
 
I agree when knocked sideways the scales could come loose. To help prevent this, I put several dimples in both inside of scales and on liners, matching them up as best I can so any side ways knock loose will actually have to shear several epoxy pins. The inside of scales and the liners are both ground with 36 grit to provide as much additional holding power for epoxy as possible.

In running a couple of tests with Rosewood scales, I repeatedly hit with sideways blows trying to break the scales loose. By the time I got the epoxy to shear and release the scales, the Rosewood was broken and damaged beyond repair.

Now, with all the above said, it's still been a concern to me about the handles holding.

Calvin, Don, Frank, and many others have so much experience and knowledge ya'll are so good to share, I really do appreciate all the comments, that's how I learn.

Ken H>
 
Last edited:
Calvin Robinson said:
Ken,
When making folders an AHEG comes in real handy. If you like,I will help you build one.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer of help in building the AHEG Calvin. Give me a few days and I would like to schedule a trip to your shop to learn a bit more about that AHEG, and perhaps try grinding a couple of blades I can have profiled. That would help me learn LOTS under your tutelage, and how to use the AHEG.

Ken H>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top