NC Forge Question
- Thread starter curtisk
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Tim Musselman
Well-Known Member
I had one a while and it would get to welding temps, if I remember the NC infomation says it will get to 2300 F
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
You likely thought of this, but my suggestion is to build yourself a forge, especially if your intent is to weld damascus.
While that forge will weld, it, along with all the other forges of that design have a fundamental flaw(s).....their square shape, and the position of the burner(s).
Both of those things present problems when forge welding....
The square design creates hot and cold spots. The position of the burners is generally coming straight in along the centerline of the top of the forge, which directs the flame directly on any work piece you place inside the forge. Common thinking would ask..."Why is that a bad thing? Won't the flame directly on the steel get it hotter?" No, The center of that flame is actually the coldest area, and the outside diameter of the flame is the hottest. What this often equates to is "bubbles" or spots in a damascus billet that do not weld. It's also not a good thing for the steel to be way overheating in one area, and cold in another. While a lot of folks own and use those types of forges, until or unless they use a circular designed forge, will have not idea how difficult they are actually making things on themselves.
Now that I've said all of that, yes, the NC forges will reach welding temps.
While that forge will weld, it, along with all the other forges of that design have a fundamental flaw(s).....their square shape, and the position of the burner(s).
Both of those things present problems when forge welding....
The square design creates hot and cold spots. The position of the burners is generally coming straight in along the centerline of the top of the forge, which directs the flame directly on any work piece you place inside the forge. Common thinking would ask..."Why is that a bad thing? Won't the flame directly on the steel get it hotter?" No, The center of that flame is actually the coldest area, and the outside diameter of the flame is the hottest. What this often equates to is "bubbles" or spots in a damascus billet that do not weld. It's also not a good thing for the steel to be way overheating in one area, and cold in another. While a lot of folks own and use those types of forges, until or unless they use a circular designed forge, will have not idea how difficult they are actually making things on themselves.
Now that I've said all of that, yes, the NC forges will reach welding temps.
We still weld a lot in coal but also have a diamondback forge two burner. It will reach welding temps and then some. If Im not mistaken it will hit a tested 2500*. I can personally attest to melting the edge of some 1084 in it 
It has a 30psi regulator and starts welding high carbon stuff around 10 psi..At 20 psi it starts melting high carbon stuff. regular forging is at about 5-6 psi..Its not a blown forge.
It has a 30psi regulator and starts welding high carbon stuff around 10 psi..At 20 psi it starts melting high carbon stuff. regular forging is at about 5-6 psi..Its not a blown forge.
K R Johnson
Well-Known Member
I use a Whisper Mama but I use a shop built forge for welding. Along with everything Ed said, welding flux is very corrosive to forge linings and it's quite expensive to get a kit from NC compared to fixing a shop built forge.