Looking for input on possible anvil stand and anvil

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
I've been tinkering today with cutting some 4x4's for an anvil stand. And I've been thinking how all of this is going to come together. I have one piece of heavy unknown steel as shown here. It has almost no rebound.




And I also have a 52100 round that has reasonable rebound. To my unpracticed hand it feels similar to a couple 'real' anvils that I have used in the past.




Each piece weights roughly 35 lbs. So if I use both that's 70 lbs. But I'm not sure if this is doable this way or not.

Or I could just get a piece of railroad rail. I have a local outlet for that. And I could get an 18" piece for $60 that weighs about 60 lbs.

I'm planning on putting whatever anvil I come up with on some 4x4's I'm thinking 9 on end tied together with bolts and chaining down in some fashion the anvil to the 4x4's


Any input appreciated. Thanks
 

Taz575

Well-Known Member
Maybe do the RR track standing up on end with the 52100 round weld to the end as the strike surface on one side and the other weird piece, make it into a horn on the other side of the track or use 2 pieces of track (one for each surface?)?

My NC Big Face is on a stand of 4x4's in a 4 wide and 4 deep pattern and it works well. With 18" of RR track and 3" of 52100, you may only need like 8 -10" more height to get it up to where it should be height wise (knuckle height usually, around 29-32" for average height males roughly). Maybe do some 4x4 horizontally to raise it up (2 layers?), then close in the RR track with the other 4x4's around it vertically and backfill with sand or cement to get more weight directly under the striking surface(s)?

This is my anvil setup. I removed the bottom layer of 4x4 that were horizontal because it was way too high for me originally. Guy I bought it from was much shorter than me, no idea how he used it!
 

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Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
Maybe do the RR track standing up on end with the 52100 round weld to the end as the strike surface on one side and the other weird piece, make it into a horn on the other side of the track or use 2 pieces of track (one for each surface?)?

My NC Big Face is on a stand of 4x4's in a 4 wide and 4 deep pattern and it works well. With 18" of RR track and 3" of 52100, you may only need like 8 -10" more height to get it up to where it should be height wise (knuckle height usually, around 29-32" for average height males roughly). Maybe do some 4x4 horizontally to raise it up (2 layers?), then close in the RR track with the other 4x4's around it vertically and backfill with sand or cement to get more weight directly under the striking surface(s)?

This is my anvil setup. I removed the bottom layer of 4x4 that were horizontal because it was way too high for me originally. Guy I bought it from was much shorter than me, no idea how he used it!
Nice setup. I measured the height I need at about 29" or so, and that's the length I've cut the 4x4's to. For now at least. I didn't think about using a piece of RR track on end. That's an interesting idea. I'll have to give it some thought.
 

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
Have you looked at the Atlas anvil? http://www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-anvil/ It's $350, with $26 shipping.

As a "make do" anvil I'd use the 52100 until I was ready to spend the money for a real anvil.
I really like their anvils. And it would be my preference. But money is really tight right now and I'd like to get going. The 52100 round just seems small. But it would probably work by itself in a pinch.
 

Taz575

Well-Known Member
Most people are usually only hammering a small section at a time. I saw others using the RR track vertical on another forum and since the mass is directly below the surface, it is supposed to work better, but that is a pretty small area of contact! 6" round should be plenty. Most anvils are only 4" across anyway? Do you have someone with a press and forge than can make the 52100 into a rectangle bar for you into a 4"x7" rectangle?

Get a 26" piece of RR track so the RR and 52100 equal out the height you wan 29", get the 2 pieces welded together and then build up the 4x4 box around it and fill the empty space with concrete to lock the RR track in place and make the whole assembly heavier and less ringy.
 

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
Most people are usually only hammering a small section at a time. I saw others using the RR track vertical on another forum and since the mass is directly below the surface, it is supposed to work better, but that is a pretty small area of contact! 6" round should be plenty. Most anvils are only 4" across anyway? Do you have someone with a press and forge than can make the 52100 into a rectangle bar for you into a 4"x7" rectangle?

Get a 26" piece of RR track so the RR and 52100 equal out the height you wan 29", get the 2 pieces welded together and then build up the 4x4 box around it and fill the empty space with concrete to lock the RR track in place and make the whole assembly heavier and less ringy.
I don't know of anyone near by with a press. At least not one that big. I'll give this some thought though. Thanks!
 

Taz575

Well-Known Member
Also, check Facebook marketplace, too! I got the NC BigFace with stand, chains, magnet and the person used silicon between the anvil and base, etc for $350 locally. You may be able to find a good deal on a real anvil!
 

52 Ford

Well-Known Member
My anvil stand is a section of white oak log. It's maybe 26" diameter at the top and flares out at the bottom. Weighs about 300 or maybe 350 pounds. I drove 4 large bolts into the top and bent them over the feet of the anvil. It's really stable. I actually have a 4" swivel base vise that I have mounted on a plate with a steel shank to use as a Hardie tool. I would not recommend that unless you have a very stable anvil stand. If you DO have a stable stand, it's pretty handy.

Sent from my Champion Forge using Tapatalk
 

PolishAvenger

Active Member
I'm gonna agree with Ken about using the 52100. I would add that, since you'll be looking for a proper anvil, go ahead and build your stand with enough space to accommodate when the time comes. With 4x4s a 12 or 16 piece will fit most anvil bases. All-thread, wood glue, large clamps and careful attention to hole placement are your friends here.20210817_152153.jpg
 

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna agree with Ken about using the 52100. I would add that, since you'll be looking for a proper anvil, go ahead and build your stand with enough space to accommodate when the time comes. With 4x4s a 12 or 16 piece will fit most anvil bases. All-thread, wood glue, large clamps and careful attention to hole placement are your friends here.View attachment 81336
That's exactly the type of base I had in mind. Expanding it in size for a real anvil in the future is a good idea. Thanks for the input!
 

52 Ford

Well-Known Member
Not sure how much difference this really makes, but I oiled my base and charred it with a torch.

If nothing else, I think it's aesthetically pleasing.

Sent from my Champion Forge using Tapatalk
 

Edwardshandmadeknives

Well-Known Member
82924BB0-C3F5-40D5-85E5-3D6D2A17834C.jpeg
I was cleaning the shop and had this outside so I took a picture. I made it from 2x6 lumber stacked flat, glued and screwed together. The “helm of awe” was carved in with a dremel and filled with dark blue paint. This has worked well for me. The anvil is a 165# Peddinghaus/Rigid.
 
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